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questionable charging practices


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25 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   MikeG

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Posted 14 May 2019 - 03:17 PM

Hadn't thought about the emergency acceleration issue--I thought that if you floored it the vehicle would realize the situation and kick in the ICE.  I'm a little surprised that's not the case, since the ICE kicks in under all kinds of other situations (Max Defrost, Defrost without face level vent, and of course battery temperature excursions, excessively cold temps, and full battery need for engine braking.)  Looking forward to your findings on the relative scales for the gauges.

 

I had one of those unanticipated errands this evening where I hadn't charged the car overnight.  Pulled into the driveway on empty/EV+ after a grocery store run, but managed to not start the ICE.  Luckily it was all back roads on the way home and I was able to be rather leisurely, and made sure not to exceed the ICE start threshold once EV Now was no longer available. I did run the engine this Sunday since I had passengers, and it was a dreary cold day that called for climate control.

 

I had a hard braking event this morning trying to pull onto the main road and seeing traffic late.  I'm glad to say the tires stuck and stopped the car quickly.









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#22 OFFLINE   cr08

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Posted 14 May 2019 - 04:44 PM

As mentioned, the EV Now mode is designed to prevent the ICE running in most of those scenarios except for extreme circumstances like the battery overheating. Defrost and flooring the accelerator will not kick on the ICE in EV Now mode. As for returning home on EV+ that is also designed that way as well. It'll plan ahead to have enough charge to make it home on EV only and will also raise the thresholds for the ICE a little to ensure it does not come on under light to moderate accel. You'll notice the blue EV threshold on the gauge will kinda rubber band depending on the amount of power you're requesting.



#23 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 14 May 2019 - 05:01 PM

This car is very versatile and has many options.  EV Now option is exactly that, I want EV and that's all that I want.  It won't kick in the engine because you asked for it.  If you want it to kick in the engine use AUTO mode, the car defaults to that.  Like I said before, there is NO reason to select EV now all the time, the car behaves exactly the same way 90% of the time.  The other 10% you don't have an engine if you floor it and if you turn on the heat it resists more to start the engine if at all possible.

 

I drove today and checked the gages, the engage screen is compressed and that's what I knew and why I mentioned it.  In EV now or Auto its the same 2 bars is 2 bars but like I always said I prefer Auto mode all the time than EV now.  Practically I use either Auto or EV later.  EV now only when plugged in, powered on and want to turn the heat on during the winter and sit in the car for some reason.  That or if I do that and then decide to drive home with the heat still running assuming its a short drive and there aren't many hills.  That's a rare event for me, I have done it a few times in 6 years driving the Cmax I can count those times on my fingers.

 

If you are short on battery and need to make it home, remember that your last Ace in the hole is Neutral.  You can shift to N when its level or slightly downhill and go further than in D with very little power applied.  It will help and might mean the difference of starting the engine or not on that trip, you'll get to know your car and know if you can make it or not.  N just gives you a little bit more range, but keep your hand on the stick shift so you can switch back to D as soon as you need power.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 14 May 2019 - 05:02 PM.


#24 OFFLINE   MikeG

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Posted 14 May 2019 - 05:50 PM

Thanks for the info on the gauge scales, Raja.  Given the emergency acceleration issue, I'll give myself some time getting comfortable with EV Auto--it's more of a psychological issue than anything else.

 

To cr08's comment, I would have sworn that turning on (standard) defrost with no other zones selected kicked off the engine on the one occasion I recall, but given how many behaviors this beast has anything is possible (perhaps the car was in a different mode, or was set for auto temp or some such.)

 

The business of staying strictly electric is a strong preference for my local short trips, but it's not mandatory--except for not wanting the combustion engine to start up just to be shut down again quickly on arrival.  I'm never going to be at the top of any conceivable rankings because the car doesn't log all that many miles over time, and I'm not that competitive in nature anyway.  It's enough of a game to drive the car as it is :)

 

On a different note, Raja, I did want to sound you out on your experience with installing solar power at your house.  Do you have a strong sense of what percentage of household power consumption it ends up contributing (including charging vehicles, of course?)  I'd considered installing solar a couple of years ago, but didn't pull the trigger for a couple of reasons--my house faces south so the array would be on the street-facing side, and I have a mature maple tree that would need to be taken down, along with a major limb of another tree.  It looks like there are much more aesthetically pleasing solar roof concepts that are nearing reality (Tesla roof for example), though they are less efficient and more expensive and not yet really available.  A neighbor's house across the street turns out to have an array on the rear part of the roof for the entire length of the house, and the only way I know about it is by looking at the Satellite view in Google Maps!  That's the ideal situation.  Financially, it made good sense two years ago when I checked solar out, inasmuch as the ten year loan required to purchase and install the array and the residual electric bill came out to less than the unadjusted electric bill over that time.  Given that electric rates in Massachusetts are among the highest in the country, and that I'm now regularly charging a vehicle HVB, I've been reconsidering the solar installation question.  With my luck, various incentives will have been phased out.  I know that there was some kind of renewable energy certificate (don't recall the actual term) that resulted in a payment to the owner that was being phased out, but I believe that tax credits and net metering are still in force.

 

-Mike G



#25 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 14 May 2019 - 06:03 PM

Mike, its not hard at all to drive in Auto, you just drive the same way as in EV mode.  Watch the bars, use the Empower screen and stay within 2 bars of power max draw even if people behind you have to wait for you to accelerate at a slower pace out of the light.

 

Your engine could have kicked on depending on the outside air temp.  The colder it is, the easier it is for the engine to kick on.  EV now lowers the threshold of the engine kicking on, Auto says he wants heat or defrost or whatever it is, provide it as quickly as possible with battery and engine as necessary.  I don't use the climate control much, for AC in the summer sure, but for heat sparingly only if the engine is running and warmed up, otherwise I dress for it and crack windows to prevent needing defrost.

 

You DEFINITELY should get solar, as soon as possible.  Let me recommend my guy to you, they did an awesome job back in 2013 for me.  PM me your email and I will send you a link to them and/or copy them on an email to you.  My house faces to the south also and to be honest I get full pleasure looking at my solar panels when I drive up.  I filled the entire roof and they are black on black (not blue ones) so they look like a big TV screen up there.  Many people that walk by look at them.  I think they are great and if you face south that's perfect, best orientation to be.

 

Let me tell you.  No more electric bills since August of 2013.  Get paid for producing electricity and you can transfer any excess electricity to friends and/or family if you so choose and can't use it all.  We have two EV cars and between the two of them in the winter sometimes I can over draw more than I make, but I have $400  credit or so in the bank with the electric company so I can use some of that during the dark months.  Right now I'm swimming in electricity, I make alot more than I use.  Today I got my SREC check (they won't have those any more for you but there is a smart program you can talk with my guy about), they send those quarterly based on how much electricity you produce.  

 

If you want you can also send me a PM with your number and we can talk on the phone if its easier, whatever works for you.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 14 May 2019 - 06:04 PM.


#26 OFFLINE   Levi Smith

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Posted 15 May 2019 - 06:53 AM

I'd just clarify that a bit...  

 

"Extreme" circumstances depends on your circumstances.  For me, it's not that hard...

 

Generally Defrost is used around here when it's cold out for like half the year when it's below freezing.  That's REALLY likely to kick on the ICE.  To the point where I would say it DOES normally do that.  But I guess maybe in warmer temperatures it might not...  I don't normally use it then so I don't really have that experience.

 

And flooring the accelerator doesn't start the ICE immediately, but if you live in a hilly area like I do, and you try to drive up a hill in EV, it can start the ICE in about a minute or so sometimes...

 

 

 

As mentioned, the EV Now mode is designed to prevent the ICE running in most of those scenarios except for extreme circumstances like the battery overheating. Defrost and flooring the accelerator will not kick on the ICE in EV Now mode. As for returning home on EV+ that is also designed that way as well. It'll plan ahead to have enough charge to make it home on EV only and will also raise the thresholds for the ICE a little to ensure it does not come on under light to moderate accel. You'll notice the blue EV threshold on the gauge will kinda rubber band depending on the amount of power you're requesting.


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