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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Send Help! Pulled Fuse 67. Car no longer starts. Cmax Energi 2017


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23 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   PineappleOranges

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 03:43 PM

C-Max Energi 2017

Issue: My Ford Mobile app will not allow me to confirm ownership of my used vehicle.

Solutions Attempted:
  • Master Reset of Sync
    • Result: Fixed a graphical issue with Pandora mobile app icon. No affect on the My Ford Mobile app (MFM).
  • Pulled fuse F67
    • Result: Where to begin.... see below:
After pulling fuse F67, I waited several second and plugged it back in. The fuse looks good and seems to pass continuity on my fuse puller (which didnt fit to help pull it out). I used forceps to pull it out, I seemed to muck up one of the test points on the fuse, but otherwise it is fine.

I tried to start the accessories on the car. A/C turns on for a couple seconds and then shuts off. I can hear a faint noise from the back of vehicle when after attempting to start Accessories. No power seems to be going to several systems in the vehicle now.
  • Flasher work, but dont make a noise.
  • No power to instrument cluster, or the infotainment system.
  • Radio doesn't work.
  • Car Locks, but horn will not sound on double lock of key fob. Horn sounds when locking while inside though, with door controls.
I tried to see if holding the brake and starting would do anything different, but it had the same effect of doing nothing. Lights in vehicle work though.

What is this issue?

EDIT: Checked Instrument cluster fuse, still good. Need to check 12V still. Key fob now sounds horn.

EDIT2: I added a picture of the negative terminal. Damn that thing is far back. I unfortuneatly don't have that type of driver head to take it off the rear panel. Go figure.
EDIT3: SCANGAUGE Reads 12.4V then up to ~14.4V after trying to start. Still no instrumentation working.
EDIT4: Found a T25 Bit around the house. Took off the first trim piece. I cautiously removed the positive terminal for ~30 seconds and place it back on. No luck. Car in same condition. Wont start and no displays. Lights, and horns work(including fog lamps and driving lights).
EDIT5: Scanguage showed a voltage of 12.1-12.2 V. No codes while off. After push button, it shows error code U0424
EDIT6: Tried Jump starting, but no luck. There is a definant humming noise from the front left of the vehicle when trying to start. I wanted to see if the vehicle would moves under electric power, and it does. I don't have any instrumentation though. Maybe it is a high amp fuse, as was noted. Going to have it towed to my nearest ford dealership tomorrow unless a solution appears today.

Final Edit: Blown BCM Fuse was the culprit. Both the car and My Ford Mobile app are working.

Attached Files


Edited by PineappleOranges, 27 June 2018 - 10:02 AM.








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#2 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 04:08 PM

Check your 12v battery voltage, maybe its down that could cause strange behavior.

 

-=>Raja.



#3 OFFLINE   PineappleOranges

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 04:27 PM

Check your 12v battery voltage, maybe its down that could cause strange behavior.

 

-=>Raja.

I'll need to grab a multimeter from the store, but I'll definately check that out. There was a message earlier on the info screen about starting engine. Maybe the battery was low?


Edited by PineappleOranges, 23 June 2018 - 04:51 PM.


#4 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 05:15 PM

Maybe, where are you now, home?  If you don't have a meter to test it with, do you have a 12v lightbulb instead - like a turn signal bulb?  You can try to put the light bulb on the car's battery and see if it lights up nicely or is dim.  You'll need a piece of wire and you can make the connection under the hood. 

 

Do you have a 12v power supply?  If you do you can plug it in and attach it to the car's 12v battery, or if you have jumper cables you can jump the battery from another vehicle you might have to see if that makes any difference, meaning if the car will power up normally.

 

Maybe I'm just the MacGyver type guy which can make do in many situations by just seeing what is available at my disposal.  

 

If the battery seems good, another thing you can do is to momentarily disconnect the 12v battery for say about 30 seconds to 1 minute and put it back on.  This will reset the car and may also very well fix some weird behaviors.

 

Hope this helps.

 

-=>Raja.



#5 OFFLINE   PineappleOranges

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 06:33 PM

 

If the battery seems good, another thing you can do is to momentarily disconnect the 12v battery for say about 30 seconds to 1 minute and put it back on.  This will reset the car and may also very well fix some weird behaviors.

 

Hope this helps.

 

-=>Raja.

 

Yeah. As you can see, I don't know much about cars. Anyways, If I try to take off the negative without removing the panel. As long as I dont touch positive, I'm good right? It is okay if I accidentally touch that black wire going to the battery, correct?



#6 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 07:01 PM

Take off the positive terminal, the negative is too hard to reach.  The only reason they tell you to take off the negative first is that in case you touch the wrench to the car's body (some metal part) it will short out the battery and you'll get a spark and startle yourself.

 

If you are careful, you can easily take off the positive terminal knowing this.  I myself removed the positive a couple of times on my 2013 to reset some stuff and to answer questions to people about what gets lost and what doesn't when you disconnect the battery.

 

Use a wrench to loosen the nut, then remove the wrench and use your fingers to pull the cable off, hold it in your hard for 30 seconds, then put it back on.  See what happens afterwards.

 

If things still don't work then go back to the original thing that caused the issue.  Check that Fuse 67 again maybe when you put it back it didn't seat properly or it went in crooked and missed the contact hence its as if its not back in as of yet.  You can try to take it out again, and then try to power up the car without it and see if there is any difference to confirm if its doing something when you put it back.  Get my idea?

 

-=>Raja.



#7 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 08:05 AM

I hate to admit it but I did something similar using a metal object and wound up shorting out one of the high voltage fuses and I put the fuse back in the wrong spot!



#8 OFFLINE   PineappleOranges

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Posted 24 June 2018 - 08:11 AM

I hate to admit it but I did something similar using a metal object and wound up shorting out one of the high voltage fuses and I put the fuse back in the wrong spot!


I guess it is a possibility, but I'm not sure how I could short out anything in the passenger well fuse box, and fuses 67, 69, and 79 are all good.

Edited by PineappleOranges, 24 June 2018 - 08:12 AM.


#9 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 05:19 AM

I didn't either but I did.



#10 OFFLINE   fotomoto

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 05:52 AM

How long have you owned it?  Do you have an OBD code reader?



#11 OFFLINE   PineappleOranges

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 06:24 AM

How long have you owned it? Do you have an OBD code reader?

It is a used CPO, I've owned it since this past Mother's Day. The previous owner was Ford, a fleet vehicle. Maybe put about 900 miles on it since? Think the mileage is around 35,000 now.

I have a ScanGauge. Only throws a code when vehicle is 'on'. I listed the code in the original post at the bottom.

Edited by PineappleOranges, 25 June 2018 - 06:26 AM.


#12 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 07:58 AM

It sounds like the car is working but the instrument panel is not lit?

 

Can you actually put it in Drive and move it under its own power once powered up?  If you're seeing voltage going from 12 to 14v means the car is actually ON and recharging the 12v battery, so that's not the issue jumping it makes no difference you already determined the 12v battery is good.

 

There are other fuses elsewhere, I think there is a panel in the rear left side of the car behind a hatch there also.  Sounds like one of them blew.

 

Step #1 determine if the car is drives first.

 

-=>Raja.



#13 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 08:05 AM

One more thing you can try is to power up with the brake on and then floor the car while in Park momentarily and see if the engine starts right up.

 

I have a feeling the car will drive but the instrument panel is not working.

 

What does this mean:

 

"I used forceps to pull it out, I seemed to muck up one of the test points on the fuse, but otherwise it is fine"

 

Is it really OK or is it damaged somehow, "muck up the test points"?  Can you clarify?

 

-=>Raja.



#14 OFFLINE   PineappleOranges

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 12:25 PM

One more thing you can try is to power up with the brake on and then floor the car while in Park momentarily and see if the engine starts right up.

I have a feeling the car will drive but the instrument panel is not working.

What does this mean:

"I used forceps to pull it out, I seemed to muck up one of the test points on the fuse, but otherwise it is fine"

Is it really OK or is it damaged somehow, "muck up the test points"? Can you clarify?

-=>Raja.

The car is now at the dealership awaiting inspection. It does drive under EV power. It was driven onto and off the tow truck. Remote start would not work.

Regarding using forceps, I originally tried to grab Fuse 67 like a pair of pliers. Due to the angle, I had trouble and ending up scrapping metal on one of the test points for the fuse.

The test points being the two metal dots on the end of the fuse, for presumably testing continuity.

The test point works, but the metal on one side looks scuffed up a little.

I ended up finding a better way to get the fuse out with the forceps. The fuse has a lip on the end. Using the tips of the forceps, I can kinda use it like a lever on the bottom of the fuse. It pulls out easily.

Edited by PineappleOranges, 25 June 2018 - 12:27 PM.


#15 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 05:11 PM

Those fuses are hard to find (the right number), hard to reach under that glove box, and apparently hard to pull out.  That's why in the past when I had an issue with MFT screen instead of trying to figure out which fuse where to pull, I disconnected the 12v battery and put it back.  Its like pulling all fuses and alot easier for me.

 

Let's see what they say.  That code that you shared seemed to be unrelated by the way, some other issue but I'm sure they will look at that for you as well.

 

-=>Raja.



#16 OFFLINE   PineappleOranges

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Posted 27 June 2018 - 10:01 AM

Update!

Car fixed, both the electrical issue and MFM.

Culprit: Blown BCM Fuse
  • fotomoto likes this

#17 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 27 June 2018 - 10:51 AM

How did that happen and where was this fuse in relation to the other fuse 67 you were messing with?

 

-=>Raja.



#18 OFFLINE   PineappleOranges

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Posted 27 June 2018 - 01:07 PM

How did that happen and where was this fuse in relation to the other fuse 67 you were messing with?


-=>Raja.



Page in manual shows there are two fuses for the BCM and they are in the Pre-Fuse Box as part of the Power Distribution Box, I guess. They were 20 A and 30 A fuses.

Edited by PineappleOranges, 27 June 2018 - 01:07 PM.


#19 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 27 June 2018 - 01:51 PM

Oops. Didn’t see you solved the problem.

Good job!

Edited by jzchen, 27 June 2018 - 01:55 PM.


#20 OFFLINE   fotomoto

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Posted 28 June 2018 - 05:03 AM

Great.  :clapping:

 

Now back to the original issue of MFM and syncing accounts.   Years ago when I traded in my CMax hybrid for the Energi, I didn't (think to) cancel my MFM account on the hybrid and months later remembered.  Opening up that account, I still could access the car, start it, lock/unlock, etc and see its location!  :nono:     Previously, I could do the same thing with my Volt via OnStar and follow its new owner for the next two years.  FWIW, I released the Ford but not the Volt which lived in Houston and was only charged once over the next two years!   :cry:

 

So I think your sync issue may just be a case of the MFM not allowing it because the PO hasn't released it.  You might need to talk to some folks up the chain.  There has to be a workaround for this by now.  


Edited by fotomoto, 28 June 2018 - 05:04 AM.









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