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CMAX mostly DEAD?


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15 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 07:16 PM

I have a 2013 CMAX and the radio/sync system has been frozen since I used the AUX in jacks to listen to one of the Playaway books from the library.

 

I tried a master reset and that did nothing so I pulled the 67 Fuse I think that is the right number.  When I put it back in and then let it sit for a while I went to start the car.  Nothing no dome light nothing..,Then i let it sit some more and if I get in sit down the interior light come on and the speedometer will light up.  I can get the center Sync Console to come up ( have NAV) and it will show the normal options but the audio part is still frozen.  I cannot even go into the settings to change the balance or fader.\

 

Car will not start at all  pushing the button does nothing other than the SYNC screen.

 

I can turn on the headlights but only the  passenger comes on, I checked and it seems that fuse is way at the top and I cannot contort myself to get it out using the crappy fuse puller from Ford.

 

When I approach the car it always unlocks the doors even though the door is not locked?

 

Should I just try pulling the battery cable off and do you have to do it from the rear?

 

Is this something that would be covered under the EV warranty I am past 3 years and have 54K miles on the car.

 

Any other suggestions I have no way to get to work tomorrow without the car.

 

 









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#2 OFFLINE   spirilis

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 07:36 PM

Dying 12V battery?  Got a portable jumpstart or other 12V battery charger?



#3 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 09:08 PM

I can but the headlight seems bright I will plug it in to charge up



#4 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 11:01 PM

Pull the battery cable off for a minute.  Check the battery with a voltmeter to see what the voltage is at.  Pulling the cable in my experience solves alot of weird issues.

 

Make sure the 12v battery has good voltage.  Weird stuff starts to happen if it drops to 10.5v.

 

-=>Raja.



#5 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 06:32 PM

So I pulled the battery and jumped it used a battery pack I have it would not start but the infotainment system now works?  one weird thing is that the CMAX did charge when it would not function at all.

 

I checked all the fuses i could today some of them are a real pain.  Since it went back to being stone dead I cannot get the rear hatch to unlock.  I picked up a regular charger started today and will try it tomorrow morning and see what happens.  Right now i have noticed the drivers side high beam is not working.  Not quite sure which fuse to check for that.  There was one headlight fuse mentioned and I did check it.  The fuse tester I picked up works OK but it is offset so quite a few of the fuses I cannot use it to check.  Pulling is not too bad but getting them back in is very trying.  I check the fuse links  in the engine compartment and they are fine.

At this point  I am probably going to have it towed to the dealership on Sunday and have them check it out.

Have to hope it is covered under warranty.



#6 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 08 January 2018 - 04:56 PM

Well the car is at the dealer they think there is a short somewhere.  They were a little surprised but the battery is in perfect shape they said,  maybe driving about 1/2 the miles EV and the other half using the engine has kept it well charged?



#7 OFFLINE   cr08

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Posted 08 January 2018 - 07:16 PM

For the 12V battery that isn't going to make any difference. It is being charged any time the car is running regardless if the ICE is running or not. And no change in power output either. Beauty of a solid state DC-DC converter. Doesn't care what the rest of the car is doing, it is going to be capable of providing a solid and stable power output at all times.



#8 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 08 January 2018 - 07:47 PM

So why do people who don't run ICE have the dead battery issue?



#9 OFFLINE   spirilis

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Posted 09 January 2018 - 03:08 AM

Not sure, don't folks who do run the ICE have issues as well?

#10 OFFLINE   cr08

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Posted 09 January 2018 - 05:01 AM

I'm pretty sure it is just coincidence really. There is no reason I can think of with the way our cars are set up that the ICE running or not running is going to affect how the 12V system is being maintained outside of drive time/length, battery age, and temperature just like any other car on the road.

One thing someone brought up as a bullet point in a thread over on the Hybrid forums that I pointed out and elaborated on was the battery management algorithim and the fact that the car does track the age of the 12V battery and take that into account along with other data points to best maintain it over time and most of all ensure various modules shut down earlier when the car is off as the battery ages and 'Reserve capacity' lessens. Unfortunately I don't think anyone knows detailed specifics of exactly what it does especially when it comes to the actual operation of the DC-DC converter when taking this extra data point into account but I'd take a wild guess is that it does factor in somehow.

 

So one thing to be mindful of especially if DIY'ing a battery replacement and to a lesser extent (but still a valid one) having a dealer replacement is ensuring the battery age is reset. Dealers should be doing this on any battery replacement and know how to do it as this feature is in nearly every late model Ford now. But you know how dealers can be sometimes. This task can only be done either via IDS (Ford specific dealer scan tool/computer) or ForScan. No options via any combination of buttons or pedal presses in the car to reset it.

 

On a little bit of a tangent I also recommend if you are having any work done at a dealer already it might be a good idea on occasion to have them ensure calibrations are up to date on the various systems in the car. With soooo much stuff being done in software especially with the C-Max, staying on the latest updates is a good thing. In fact if I recall (I came into this community way after all the major growing pains in the first couple years) there were early TSBs regarding the DC-DC converter and 12V operation that was sorted via software updates. I know I plan on saving up and sometime this Spring taking mine in to get 4 new tires, oil change, top to bottom checks, and also have them get everything up to date.



#11 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 09 January 2018 - 06:27 AM

Depending on the build date, the rear hatch wiring can have a short.  It is a known issue.

 

Personally changed my wife's battery and reset the monitor a couple of days later with Forscan.  I think I should have just left it, because if it is true that the BMS will baby an old battery, I want it to baby my new battery.  That said, as I note I did reset it anyways.



#12 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 09 January 2018 - 07:51 PM

So heard from dealer today blown 50 amp fuse in the SJB I believe he said.  Should have car back tomorrow.  They wanted to replace the battery after saying ti was OK but they want 214.00 installed which seems pretty crazy.  But it does include install



#13 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 07:51 PM

Got the car back today, parts were less than 12 bucks  2 fuses CV6Z BS 2l5z  FUSE f4 50 amp  BCM supply fuse. 419.85 in labor.

 

They did check and reprogrammed everything to latest levels.

 

Seems to be fine and not sure if it is from using other car but brakes/regen seems very touchy diving home.


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#14 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 03:22 AM

Got the car back today, parts were less than 12 bucks  2 fuses CV6Z BS 2l5z  FUSE f4 50 amp  BCM supply fuse. 419.85 in labor.

 

They did check and reprogrammed everything to latest levels.

 

Seems to be fine and not sure if it is from using other car but brakes/regen seems very touchy diving home.

 

Last programming I had done on my wife's was $100 plus.  That's a lot of labor for fuse replacement only.  I hope some of that $419 was for the programming?



#15 OFFLINE   Levi Smith

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 05:52 AM

That is a lot of money, but (unfortunately) not exactly surprising for a dealer. Is that BCM fuse perhaps buried under some interior pieces on/in the battery pack?  $420 in labor, what's that maybe 2.5hrs? I suppose it's possible...



#16 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 06:21 AM

The labor was for the time to find the issue, 3 hours of diagnosis.










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