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New Ford Cmax 2017 Stats


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19 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   rbort

rbort

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 06:30 AM

So far, after driving my 2017 for 6271 miles, I have the following lifetime stats:

 

71.6 mpg

3798 EV miles out of 6271, a 60/40 mix.

199:43:46 hours driving

387 Kwh burned out of the HVB

87.51 gallons of total gas burned

 

I have been keeping track every time the numbers in the trip meter 2 roll over so I know where I'm at as Lifetime summary is no longer...  :cry:

 

Driving around in the city with the engine at speeds of 55mph or less on average, my RAFE is now up to 56mpg, meaning if I full the fuel tank the range will be 784 miles.

 

The HVB range has been in the 30's, mid 30's during warmer weather, now that its a bit cooler lower 30's.

 

Last night I drove the last 20 miles home in purely hybrid mode just to see what I get (I reset the instant mpg meter) and ended up with 60.5 mpg for that last segment.  The HVB was already dead and the car in hybrid mode only.

 

See pictures below.   :camera:

 

-=>Raja.

Attached Files


Edited by rbort, 05 October 2017 - 07:20 AM.

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#2 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 04:48 AM

Taking a trip to Northern Vermont today, RAFE should drop due to highway driving and climbing mountains, plus colder temps.  Last night after going to Boston and back again on a warm night I found my RAFE to be up to 56.7 peak, jeez, fill the tank this morning range will be 794 miles!!!

 

-=>Raja.



#3 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 11:24 AM

That's Great!  :smile2:, I filled up this morning and my MTE was 790.9 mi. and my last tank was 56.5 mpg Fuelly(58.3mpg Smart Gauge) not bad. Tried to down load .jpg pics but site wouldn't let me. :(  On my Record runs fillups MTE would be in the 900's, IIRC one was 950 mi.  I really don't pay that much attention to it until I'm getting low on gas. :smile2: 

 

Paul 



#4 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 09:48 PM

Thanks Paul, appreciated  :hi5:

So I'm back from a trip to the mountains of Vermont.  There was alot of hills and long climbing slopes for miles.  I remember once I was climbing for maybe 4 miles at almost 3000 rpms at 65mph.  I watched the DTE drop 20 miles as the engine MPG number (RAFE) was dropping fast.  When I got home tonight I found out that the number has dropped from 56.9 to 44.5 now.  If I fill the tank I should see 623 mile range, still above Ford EPA estimated for this car and after a 500+ mile trip on the highway to Vermont and back.  See pictures below.

 

You can also see I used up just about ALL the gas in this car.  Having a HVB really helps to calm the gas range anxiety, if you're running low on gas at least you have the battery to get you home.  Made it with 7 miles range of gas left, and 2 miles of HVB.  When I checked the ET screen, it showed about 12 to 13 on the fuel gage, which, when full is 1004 if I recall correctly.  So if my math is correct, 12.5/1004 x 14 gallons = 0.174 gallons of gas remaining or 22.3 oz.  Not sure if its real or not, but that's what the car's computer thinks.

 

My buddy Larry who was following me up to Vermont and back in his Ford Lightening truck filled up in Derry, NH.  Went to Troy, VT and back down to Millis, MA before getting gas.  To fill up his truck it cost $75 as he's got a 25 gallon tank, put in 23.25 gallons of super.  I went up with almost 3/4 tank of fuel, drive over 510 miles on that including 15.3kwh of battery or close to 3 full charges.  I didn't get any gas at that station tonight, it was more expensive than normal, and I figured I had enough battery to make it home.

 

MPG for the trip at 55.7, pretty decent considering all the mountain climbing.

 

I left the car unplugged to cool the battery down tonight, and didn't burn the entire battery many times on this trip as I didn't want to climb mountains with it, even though I knew I was going to be able to recharge at my next stop, I just used more gas and less battery as the battery is more important than the gas.  Sacrifice a few miles per gallon performance but worth it to protect the battery.

 

-=>Raja.

Attached Files


Edited by rbort, 08 October 2017 - 09:52 PM.


#5 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:34 AM

Are you monitoring the HVB temp?  I watch it on my ScanGaugeII, the Highest I've scene is 108*F and I use the HVB 51% of the miles. I need to Post some pics. :headscratch: 

 

Paul 



#6 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:40 AM

No Paul I don't use a scangage but I have a good feel for it so to speak and always try to drain it slow and easy.

 

-=>Raja.



#7 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 07:43 AM

It would be nice to have a range of temps for the HVB and maybe a max temp to be charging and driving. Information is King, I hate to guess on important things like HVB. :smile2:

 

Paul


Edited by ptjones, 09 October 2017 - 07:43 AM.


#8 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:28 AM

I searched for HVB temps and only thing I found was 109*F and wasn't sure if that was hot. I have been using trunk cover to keep the Sun from heating up trunk floor.  :smile2:  I wonder how hot the HVB got when I was going across the Desert at 110*F with windows down. :( 

 

Paul  



#9 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 12:05 PM

From many sources, I glean that the combination of high temp and full charge is far worse than either parameter by itself.

Since Ford set 100% charge at 4.1V not 4.2V (isn’t this correct?) we are always somewhat protected.

As for temp, 86F is said to be the top end of ideal health, at full charge. I’m sure that increased temp is harmful in a non-linear fashion, meaning that, say, 94F is nowhere near as damaging as 105F.

Whenever my ScanGauge tells me HVB temp is over 86F, I decrease acceleration even less than my normal 2 bar light touch. And I open all the windows or use A/C.

Regen is the thing, though. All that current really heats things up. So I anticipate stops where I can and coast down to a stop. When I can’t anticipate, a firmer stop is indicated. More steel brakes and less regen means less heat rise in the HVB. No worries—we’ll still never need the brake pads replaced even so.

Oh, and two years of experimentation show that L2 charging at night leads to consistently lower morning HVB temps than does L1 charging with the car’s cord, in ALL ambient temperature ranges.

#10 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 02:22 PM

There is something wrong with this picture.  :headscratch:  I have a Hybrid which could be a little different, SOC Normal  range is 32-70%  and Max range after car has cooled down 27-80%.  With outside temps at 90*F of the FWY and SOC 38-52% HVB temp at 108*F.  With temps outside 110*F the HVB Temp. could reach 120*F I'm guessing.   I usually see 96-100*F after a half an hour or so on the FWY, temps go up slowly on long trips. :smile2:

 

Paul



#11 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 02:49 PM

At the end of the day you need to do everything possible from the beginning to keep HVB temps down.  In other words, go easy on the battery from the beginning not wait until the temp rises and then go easy.  Just make it a habit to do that and it should help alot.  I went 4 years and 73k miles with my original Cmax with little degradation on my battery.  I did do some mistakes in the past, like charging in the sun and charging too much just to stay on battery.  I remember driving 80 miles in one day EV only.

 

But the bottom line is that you have to drive the car.  So do your best and it be what it may be - you can't just start slamming on the brake with pads so you don't regen.  I guess you could start shifting into N but I never went that far...  On hotter days drive at night if possible.  Things like that.

 

-=>Raja.


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#12 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:35 PM

Well, when I say “When I can’t anticipate, a firmer stop is indicated“, I refer to Pennsylvania traffic lights, in which the yellow is only about 7 femtoseconds long. So around here, when you get hit with a yellow you can’t gently coast up, you have to brake hard.

I’ve simply noticed that when I’m on the same route many times, stopping hard for multiple lights does not lead to any HVB temp rise. Yet going down a long hill in L just once will pop it up two degrees right away on a hot day.

#13 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 08:05 AM

I pretty much never use L and use down hill assist instead. I do use N when I get good downhill stretches which I don't see a change in HVB temp, but I do see 2 Bars EV after which implies the HVB has cooled down. :smile2:  Normal is around 1 1/2 Bars EV MAX.  Members should be monitoring HVB temps vs SOC to create a data base and then have a range of temps based on conditions that would seem safe without damaging the HVB. IMO :smile2: 

 

Paul 



#14 OFFLINE   marlowefamily

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 09:19 AM

Does anyone ever use the go time feature?  It seems like a gimmick and possibly dangerous to me.  Normally, I only charge the car at night when it is cool and the air conditioning fan is turned down to the lowest setting when I'm driving to consume power.

 

Tested on my new 2017 energi titanium last week - set the gotime for 3pm since that was when I had to drop my son off for a private math class 4 miles away from home.  Came outside and found the car charging during peak heat, air conditioning running at max, and the car sounded like a loud vacuum cleaner outdoors in the middle of the day.    Outdoor temp was almost 80 degrees.

 

Immediately, removed the go time and currently don't plan to use it all going forward.



#15 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 10:02 AM

Does anyone ever use the go time feature?  It seems like a gimmick and possibly dangerous to me.  Normally, I only charge the car at night when it is cool and the air conditioning fan is turned down to the lowest setting when I'm driving to consume power.

 

Tested on my new 2017 energi titanium last week - set the gotime for 3pm since that was when I had to drop my son off for a private math class 4 miles away from home.  Came outside and found the car charging during peak heat, air conditioning running at max, and the car sounded like a loud vacuum cleaner outdoors in the middle of the day.    Outdoor temp was almost 80 degrees.

 

Immediately, removed the go time and currently don't plan to use it all going forward.

 

I use go times in the winter when I need a bit of heat at the start of a drive. I admire Raja for his dedication to not using heat in the winter but I prefer a bit more comfort. In the summer I don't use Go times since the car cools off rapidly when the AC is turned on. I also use the ICE much more often in the summer to prevent overheating the HVB. Timing the use of AC while running the ICE is often the best option for my traveling.

 

Tom



#16 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 10:03 AM

Go time is OK.  Its usually using the plug in power not the battery to cool the car down.  I say usually as at first if the car is hot it takes more than the plug in power to cool the car down and its running the AC on high using battery as well as plug in power, unless you're plugged into 240v but sometimes initially the car can take even more than that shore power can provide.

 

It can help in some situations, but I generally don't use it.  Also some people use it to heat up the car, but that costs alot more energy than AC does I would only use it for AC in general and drive without heat if running on battery.

 

-=>Raja.


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#17 OFFLINE   marlowefamily

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 04:13 PM

So, I'm on week 6 of owning my 2017 -- using it as a family car:

 

Total Average MPG (ice engine only?) is around 72 according to the main gauge on the left screen.

Recent MPGe (electric engine only?) seems to be around 125 according to myfordmobile.

 

However, my driving score doesn't seem to be improving much -- I frequently am getting passed on the road due to trying to keep electrical engine under 2bars and then I find myself subconsciously accelerating later on when in traffic to avoid annoying others and/or I find it hard to be consistent on the braking (lots of 80% braking mixed in with the 95+% scores).



#18 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 05:47 PM

Total average would be ICE and all plug in miles combined.  Mine is like around 71.xx mpg since day 1 because I didn't ever reset trip 2 meter.

 

MPGe from MFM will show the performance of electric miles and/or gas and electric miles.  If electric only trip, should be easily over 150mpge, mine tonight were 175 and 198 MPGe.

 

You need to just relax and stop trying to drive as fast as you did in the past.  By that I mean accelerate slower, brake early and slowly to capture all the energy back into the battery.  That's how you improve your driving scores.  Once you have it licked you should be batting 99 driving scores unless some guy pulls out in front of you and causes you to brake harder than regen braking, or a light changes at the last second and does the same.  Your coach bars should be all full blue.  This is taking about city driving.  Once you get on the highway and start driving 65mph, then driving scores will drop.  Mine coming back from VT was 85, but that's normal.

 

Work on your braking, that seems to be one thing that needs to be perfected.  People are always in a rush, but you'll find that you'll get there almost at the same time without having to stomp on the gas when the light turns green and slam on the brake when its red.

 

If you got any other questions Marlowe, please let me know, be more than happy to help.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 10 October 2017 - 05:47 PM.


#19 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 06:34 AM

Is there a Brake Coach on the 2017 CMAX?  I have had mine on since day one and Life Time Score of 98%. :smile2:  Even my Wife watches it. LOL

 

Paul



#20 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 06:57 AM

Of course there is, and you should have that also.  98% score is very good!  I had a lifetime brake score on my 2013 cmax.  My 2017 doesn't have lifetime statistics any more, its a bummer Ford decided not to keep that page after you shut off the car.

 

Also there is acceleration coach and speed coach.  Ideally you want all those full blue all the time.  The speed one will drop once you get past 38mph.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 11 October 2017 - 06:58 AM.









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