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MFM will not Update...suggestions?

mfm not updating

Best Answer altabrig , 19 July 2017 - 07:25 AM

Disconnect of positive worked! MFD setting want from a 2010 date and no value charge to my previous settings and MFM BACK ONLINE!

The positive clamp is bulky and awkward in the tight space - that is all. To do it right, removing the negative clamp require removing the air vents with multiple push pins, torx bolts, etc.

The failure to sync and remote start alerts came through and a false Chunk fully charged came through at plug in with only 14% on the HVB. Otherwise all is working with MFM!


I have almost chopped the plug and put on a heavy duty. Not sure to go with 15 or 20 amp and don't want to screw with it yet being this is the second cable in less than four years. Due to the fact that both have failed in the same manner, I plan on seeking some recourse and don't want to void that attempt via DIY plug mod. Go to the full post


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52 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 08:59 AM

Had the new modem working fine for months.

Four days ago MFM stopped updating, car will not change to value charge (either through MFM or MFD) and car I'll not start off MFM.

MFM does show when syncs and remote starts fail.

Any tips to get Chunk back online without the master reset?

Really need the value charge because the cooler night temps are the only time I can get the battery and cable cool enough not to repeatedly overheat and cause the cable to fault.

Nothing but fun with Ford and the Cmax. A new issue daily.

Thanks for the help.







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#2 OFFLINE   Jonathan Ezor

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 09:57 AM

To restore connection, try pulling fuse #67, in the fusebox below the glove compartment, and putting it back in. That should powercycle the MFM modem and get it back into connection with the app and Web site while avoiding the reset. Also, are you saying you cannot switch to value charge within the actual dashboard, or just through the Web site or app?  {Jonathan}


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#3 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 10:19 AM

Yes it will neither update in dash MFD nor on MFM. In fact I can't change the default profile nor charge times via the dash since the freeze.
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#4 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 10:33 AM

Pulled 15amp 67 with vehicle off. Wife just took out vehicle. MFM still locating vehicle at Costco gas where it was last Friday when MFM froze.

No clue why the MFD won't Dave value charge settings either.

#5 OFFLINE   Jonathan Ezor

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 11:03 AM

Maybe the fuse actually blew? Have you tried replacing it?



#6 OFFLINE   nmorrisii

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 12:24 PM

Can you see the ESN in the About Sync area of the Settings?



#7 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 01:31 PM

You may want to pull the battery negative cable for a minute to reboot the whole car and get the MFT screen to work properly again.

 

-=>Raja.


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#8 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 08:15 PM

.

Maybe the fuse actually blew? Have you tried replacing it?

  

No. Just popped it back. I think I have a mini set - I used to have a box of minis.
I,ll try to find them in the morning

Can you see the ESN in the About Sync area of the Settings?

 
The CPPM ESN is unknown in system information under help. I can't find an about sync tab anywhaere in settings or in any other MFD screen layer.

 

You may want to pull the battery negative cable for a minute to reboot the whole car and get the MFT screen to work properly again.
 
-=>Raja.


Maybe manana. I had the back end taken apart a couple weeks back. Don't feel like playing with all those easily breakable pushpins.


Thanks to all of you for the suggestions.

#9 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 08:36 PM

You don't have to remove anything major, there is a cover that comes off (the one that the fueling funnel attaches to) and you will get enough access to remove one of the battery terminals.  If you can't reach the negative remove the positive, just be careful not to touch the wrench to the body of the car while you're unscrewing the terminal.

 

Positive or negative doesn't matter which one you remove, but people recommend the negative as if you touch the body with the wrench nothing will happen, if you do with the positive poof you'll see a nice spark to wake you up!

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 18 July 2017 - 08:37 PM.

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#10 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 04:34 AM

Pulled the fuse again. It's fine.

Had the back pulled apart for the 12v battery test recently. To get the cable off safely requires the vent removal, bit that may be the next troubleshoot.

Any other good ideas?

#11 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 04:40 AM

Real bummer is car charge cable faults during charge and if I don't get the alert, I find out in the morning (like this a.m.) that the car hasn't charged.

Those alerts help with the tedious exercise of unplugging and restarting the charge. Sure would be nice to get the value charge back.

#12 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 05:11 AM

Why do you need to remove the vent in order to disconnect one of the cables for a minute and put it back??  Let me scratch me head on that one...?

 

Why is the car charge faulting, because the plug is getting hot?  Maybe you just need to replace it with a new good plug to solve this issue.  Might be as simple as that to be honest.

 

-=>Raja.



#13 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 07:25 AM   Best Answer

Disconnect of positive worked! MFD setting want from a 2010 date and no value charge to my previous settings and MFM BACK ONLINE!

The positive clamp is bulky and awkward in the tight space - that is all. To do it right, removing the negative clamp require removing the air vents with multiple push pins, torx bolts, etc.

The failure to sync and remote start alerts came through and a false Chunk fully charged came through at plug in with only 14% on the HVB. Otherwise all is working with MFM!


I have almost chopped the plug and put on a heavy duty. Not sure to go with 15 or 20 amp and don't want to screw with it yet being this is the second cable in less than four years. Due to the fact that both have failed in the same manner, I plan on seeking some recourse and don't want to void that attempt via DIY plug mod.

Edited by altabrig, 19 July 2017 - 08:45 AM.


#14 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 07:36 AM

Glad to hear it, sometimes disconnecting the 12v battery is a very good fix as it reboots the whole car.  I had trouble with the MFT screen before and doing that fixed my problems.  Happy to help!

 

If you do get a replacement, I would recommend to never plug it into the wall directly, always plug it into a heavy duty 25 foot extension from home depot and plug that into the wall.  This way if you have a bad connection at the wall from the outlet and it gets hot you only damage the extension and not the EVSE.

 

Hey just for thoughts, go out and buy a 25 foot extension and use that to charge the car, see if you still get the problems or not.  Check the EVSE plug to the extension connection about 1 hour into the charge to see if its hot.  If not then you don't need to chop off the plug.  How does it look anyways, got a picture of the plug on the EVSE?

 

Here is the link to the extension that I use:

 

http://www.homedepot...62622/100661431

 

 

-=>Raja.



#15 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 07:45 AM

Thanks I have a couple 10 and 12 gauge extensions. I'll give it a shot. But I regularly use a heavy extension at the in-laws to charge and it will fault every time there is high ambient temperature and a hot HVB, so I am not sanguine an anything working at this point.

Posted several picks with the single and double fault warnings on the cable here:

http://fordcmaxenerg...ge-2#entry46145

#16 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 08:01 AM

First of all in that link to the other thread I see you plugging the EVSE directly into the outlet.  Listen to me, don't do that.

 

Second, I need you to try this:

 

Flip the right rear seat forward.

Remove the hatch that hides the HVB disconnect plug.  This will allow hot charging air to escape.

Roll down all 4 windows at least an inch or more if the can is inside the garage.

 

Then,

 

Plug in the charger.  Hang around and listen to the fan in the back.  Questions to you:

 

#1 is it running at all

#2 is it running at a slow speed

#3 is it running at a medium speed

#4 is it running at a medium speed, then going to a fast speed, then back to medium and so fortth?

 

Let the car charge using one of your extensions and check the plugs both ends .  Is the EVSE plug to the extension hot after a while?  Do you have a temp gun to measure it?  Is the plug of the extension hot at the outlet?  Is the wire to the car hot?  Unwind it from the EVSE.  Is the EVSE itself hot?  

 

You obviously need to wait a while for things to heat up, about an hour, but let me know what you find.

 

Also let me know the fan speed in the back of the car when you start charging ad then later on as time passes, check often.  Also check for me if there is hot air blowing out where you removed the cover, how hot is it?  Lukewarm or hot like a blow dryer?

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 19 July 2017 - 08:04 AM.


#17 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 08:37 AM

First of all in that link to the other thread I see you plugging the EVSE directly into the outlet.  Listen to me, don't do that.
 
Second, I need you to try this:
 
Flip the right rear seat forward.
Remove the hatch that hides the HVB disconnect plug.  This will allow hot charging air to escape.
Roll down all 4 windows at least an inch or more if the can is inside the garage.
 
Then,
 
Plug in the charger.  Hang around and listen to the fan in the back.  Questions to you:
 
#1 is it running at all
#2 is it running at a slow speed
#3 is it running at a medium speed
#4 is it running at a medium speed, then going to a fast speed, then back to medium and so fortth?
 
Let the car charge using one of your extensions and check the plugs both ends .  Is the EVSE plug to the extension hot after a while?  Do you have a temp gun to measure it?  Is the plug of the extension hot at the outlet?  Is the wire to the car hot?  Unwind it from the EVSE.  Is the EVSE itself hot?  
 
You obviously need to wait a while for things to heat up, about an hour, but let me know what you find.
 
Also let me know the fan speed in the back of the car when you start charging ad then later on as time passes, check often.  Also check for me if there is hot air blowing out where you removed the cover, how hot is it?  Lukewarm or hot like a blow dryer?
 
-=>Raja.


Fan alternates speed depending on temp, charge duration and time since operating HVB. It works hard and windows are down.

Full response in charge cable thread to keep this one on the MFM/MFD CHARGE SETTINGS freeze resolution for other folks with the same failure to update and MFD freeze.

Response here: http://fordcmaxenerg...-on/#entry46499

#18 OFFLINE   dsnows

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Posted 14 August 2017 - 10:15 AM

To restore connection, try pulling fuse #67, in the fusebox below the glove compartment, and putting it back in. That should powercycle the MFM modem and get it back into connection with the app and Web site while avoiding the reset. Also, are you saying you cannot switch to value charge within the actual dashboard, or just through the Web site or app?  {Jonathan}

 

 

This worked for me. 


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#19 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 16 August 2017 - 01:59 AM

CPPM ESN:  Unknown was solved by a replacement part on my wife's!  (I just saw this thread, was out of the country from July 20 to Aug 9...)  Was really worried but glad to read of a solution found that did not involve a costly part replacement....



#20 OFFLINE   danielmcross

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Posted 17 August 2017 - 11:01 AM

2016 C-Max Energi here.

 

I am struggling with this same problem that also began in July. Original modem was replaced in February pf 2016 and MFM worked until mid July 2017.

 

I did a master reset to no effect. I've pulled fuse F67 to no effect. I disconnected the battery to no effect. I think the dealership replaced the 2G cellular with another 2G modem so when AT&T finished shutting down all their 2G systems it stranded my car and from the sounds of it some other people too.

 

Does anyone know where the TCU/modem is located? I thought it was in the back hatch some place but after pulling every cover I could find I haven't found anything more interesting than the keyless entry module. I didn't open up the entire rear hatch area any more than it took to get the battery cables off, is the TCU buried in there some place? Anyone know what it looks like and where to find it? I'd like to see what part # is on it to see if the dealership swapped in the wrong part. Local dealer service department is weapons-grade stupid so the more steps I eliminate for them the sooner I can help them fix it.










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