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105 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   Levi Smith

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 12:50 PM

 

So after $600 dumped on wiring inspection and module reprogramming.

 

I just got these messages from MFM.

 

Went down at 1:30.   TOTALLY DEAD.  UP THE CREEK.

 

  • 05/17/2017 1:33:57 pmChunk: 12-volt battery is low
  • 05/17/2017 1:25:05 pmChunk: 12-volt battery is low
  • 05/17/2017 1:24:06 pmChunk may have incorrect clock settings which will affect charging, GO Times, and more.
  • 05/17/2017 1:24:06 pmChunk: 12-volt battery is low
  •  

 

That sucks.  Do you carry a jump start pack?  If not, that'd be he first thing I'd do(I try to keep one in every vehicle. Hardly ever need it but...)

 

And to be clear, for $600 the 12V battery was never replaced, correct?


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#22 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 01:07 PM

yep.   Ford dealership tested it and it was hold full charge.  Originally I brought it in cause I couldn't find a 12v from AAA, Costco, or in stock in local Auto Parts stores to DIY.

 

I can't drive an unreliable car that requires jumping.   Totally a Recall issue not wear and tear.



#23 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 02:34 PM

This is old and similar to the TSB 16-0157.  Should be  a recall if the wiring has been corrupted and TCUs going bad since they rolled of the line.   Ford needs to step up and fix this.  Not regular wear and tear to fail in the first 4 years.

 

the problem is that as the car sits overnight there are comuters in the car that stay on for a long time, some go off and then come back on again , the fix for this problem is to update ALL modules on the car, about 80% of them have updates, and they consist of makeing sure that they dont stay on for a long time when the car is off, after all the modules have been updated, then have them put a new battery in the car, remove any codes in all the modules and performe a battery monitor reset, then all your problems should be gone , ford knows about this problem and there are TSB and messages on fords Oasis to cure this problem ,
-
we can go back and forth on this page
-
Chris
-
TSB 14-0155 HYBRID AND ENERGI – DISCHARGED 12 VOLT BATTERY
Publication Date: August 27, 2014
FORD: 2013-2014 C-MAX
This article supersedes TSB 13-7-10 to update the model years, Title, Issue Statement and Service Procedure.
ISSUE:
Some 2013-2014 C-MAX Hybrid and Energi vehicles may experience a concern with a discharged 12 volt battery.
ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1.Disconnect the 12-volt battery. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 414-01.
2.Connect the Rotunda Midtronics GR1-190 or GRX-3590 Diagnostic Battery Charger to the vehicle’s battery terminal posts only. Battery cables must be removed and no other connections, such as body ground, can be in the circuit during testing.
a.Select diagnostic fast charge.
b.On GR1-190 only - select above 400 km (250 miles) or below 400 km (250 miles) based on vehicle mileage.
c.Select battery type Lead Acid.
d.Enter cold cranking amp (CCA) rating of 390 CCA.
3.Did the battery pass the load test?
a.Yes - allow battery to fully charge. After charging is complete, reconnect the 12-volt battery. Refer to WSM, Section 414-01. Proceed to Step 4.
b.No - record the failure code. Replace the battery. Refer to WSM, Section 414-01. Make sure the 12-volt battery is fully charged. Using Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) service tool, perform the battery monitoring system (BMS). Reset after the new battery is connected. Proceed to Step 4.
4.Reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM), DC/DC converter (DCDC), instrument panel cluster (IPC), gateway module (GWM) and, if equipped with the 4.2-inch display, the front control / display interface module (FCDIM) using IDS release 91.05 or higher. Make sure you are connected to the internet when entering module programming to guarantee you will receive the latest updates. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraftservice.com.
a.Inspect vehicle communication module (VCM) and cables for any damage. Make sure scan tool connections are not interrupted during programming.
b.Turn off all accessories (radio, heated/cooled seats, head lamps, interior lamps, HVAC system, etc.) and close doors.
c.Disconnect or depower any aftermarket accessories.
d.Disable IDS scan tool sleep mode, screen saver and hibernation modes.
e.Create all sessions key on engine off (KOEO). Starting the vehicle before creating a session will cause errors within the programming inhale process.
f.Connect a battery charger to the 12-volt battery.
5.Is the vehicle an Energi built on or before 9/12/2013?
a.Yes - replace telematics control unit (TCU) Module. Refer to WSM, Section 415-00. Proceed to Step 6.
b.No - proceed to Step 6.
6.Is the vehicle built on or before 6/3/2013?
a.Yes - proceed to Step 7.
b.No - proceed to Step 8.
7.Inspect wiring for damage or chafing in rear liftgate area, driver door connector wire harness C339, and front passenger door connector wire harness C340 (Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4). Is damage or chafing present?
Figure 1 - 14-0155
Figure 2 - 14-0155
Figure 3 - 14-0155
Figure 4 - 14-0155
a.Yes - repair circuits as needed. Refer to Wiring Diagram (WD), Section 5-1. After repair, wrap affected area with 3M™ Temflex™ Cotton Friction Tape or equivalent to prevent future concerns. Proceed to step 8.
b.No - wrap affected area with 3M™ Temflex™ Cotton Friction Tape or equivalent to prevent future concerns. Proceed to step 8.
8.Print information sheet and provide to customer. Communicate to customer that Ford recommends disconnecting any devices attached to the auxiliary power port, USB port and OBDII port when the vehicle is turned off (e.g. cell phone chargers, USB devices, insurance company snapshot devices, etc.). (Figure 5)
Obtain Locally
Part Number Part Description
1755 3M™ Temflex™ Cotton Friction Tape
PART NUMBER PART NAME
DM5Z-19K350-B DM5Z-19K350-B TCU Module
BXT-67R BXT-67R 12-V Battery
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES
13B12
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
140155A 2013-2014 C-MAX Hybrid: Diagnose And Charge Battery, Reprogram Modules, Inspect Wiring Pass (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.0 Hr.
140155B 2013-2014 C-MAX Hybrid: Diagnose And Replace Battery, Reprogram Modules, Inspect Wiring Pass (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.1 Hrs.
140155C 2013-2014 C-MAX Hybrid: Diagnose And Charge Battery, Reprogram Modules, Inspect And Repair Wiring (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.7 Hrs.
140155D 2013-2014 C-MAX Hybrid: Diagnose And Replace Battery, Reprogram Modules, Inspect And Repair Wiring (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.8 Hrs.
140155E 2013-2014 C-MAX Energi: Diagnose And Charge Battery, Reprogram Modules, Inspect Wiring Pass (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.2 Hrs.
140155F 2013-2014 C-MAX Energi: Diagnose And Replace Battery, Reprogram Modules, Inspect Wiring Pass (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.5 Hrs.
140155G 2013-2014 C-MAX Energi: Diagnose And Charge Battery, Reprogram Modules, Inspect And Repair Wiring (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.9 Hrs.
140155H 2013-2014 C-MAX Energi: Diagnose And Replace Battery, Reprogram Modules, Inspect And Repair Wiring (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 2.1 Hrs.
140155J 2013-2014 C-MAX Energi: Diagnose And Charge Battery, Reprogram Modules, Replace The TCU, Inspect Wiring Pass (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.7 Hrs.
140155K 2013-2014 C-MAX Energi: Diagnose And Replace Battery, Reprogram Modules, Replace The TCU, Inspect Wiring Pass (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 1.9 Hrs.
140155L 2013-2014 C-MAX Energi: Diagnose And Charge Battery, Reprogram Modules, Replace The TCU, Inspect And Repair Wiring (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 2.3 Hrs.
140155M 2013-2014 C-MAX Energi: Diagnose And Replace Battery, Reprogram Modules, Replace The TCU, Inspect And Repair Wiring (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 2.6 Hrs.



#24 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 02:37 PM

and another guide with picture  same routine different module patch most likely,

 

http://ford.oemdtc.c...2014-ford-c-max



#25 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 03:05 PM

Wow. I just spoke with my wife to confirm that her issue happened Thursday as well. I told her earlier that I suspect some kind of My Ford Mobile "Event" woke the cars in the OC region of So Cal which then drained the battery, but I wasn't sure our events happened on the same date until now! I guess you are right and that somehow the other errors you got were related to a low battery. I ran a health report on Saturday morning and got some serious brake/ABS issue. I was told by an adviser at Advantage that this would happen if the parking brake was set, which I wasn't aware. The second health report was clean/no issues. I then decided to try my cord with FMP....

When we went to pick the car up the SA said the car had no errors/DTCs. I knew that because after the successful PCM flash it said it cleared all errors. I also am not able to run a health report until the car accumulates at least 200 miles. I asked to speak to the mechanic, and explained the low batttery, my PCM flash, and the warning of the ABS being at an invalid level. It is an hour labor and $125 to complete the TSB/ABS flash. We agreed and went to the local Costco to kill the time. About 30 mins later my wife gets a call that the car is almost done. I'm not surprised as it took about 10 minutes for the PCM flash and failed attempt to flash the ABS.

Edited by jzchen, 17 May 2017 - 03:15 PM.


#26 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 03:39 PM

Wow. I just spoke with my wife to confirm that her issue happened Thursday as well. I told her earlier that I suspect some kind of My Ford Mobile "Event" woke the cars in the OC region of So Cal which then drained the battery, but I wasn't sure our events happened on the same date until now! I guess you are right and that somehow the other errors you got were related to a low battery. I ran a health report on Saturday morning and got some serious brake/ABS issue. I was told by an adviser at Advantage that this would happen if the parking brake was set, which I wasn't aware. The second health report was clean/no issues. I then decided to try my cord with FMP....

When we went to pick the car up the SA said the car had no errors/DTCs. I knew that because after the successful PCM flash it said it cleared all errors. I also am not able to run a health report until the car accumulates at least 200 miles. I asked to speak to the mechanic, and explained the low batttery, my PCM flash, and the warning of the ABS being at an invalid level. It is an hour labor and $125 to complete the TSB/ABS flash. We agreed and went to the local Costco to kill the time. About 30 mins later my wife gets a call that the car is almost done. I'm not surprised as it took about 10 minutes for the PCM flash and failed attempt to flash the ABS.

I got the same (incorrect) brake issue in the  report when I ran the vehicle health report.    Taking it back to the dealer who already got $600 for needless reprogramming and inspections.  My fluid is pristine and the brakes are fine.   Since we both got the same brake report I am willing to bet it is wrong.

 

$125 for the flash sounds a lot better when compared to $600 for the flash and wiring harness looksee.


Edited by altabrig, 17 May 2017 - 03:40 PM.


#27 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 03:44 PM

I received a recall notice about something to do with draining the battery.  Maybe that's your solution?

Classic.  If your on warranty you get a recall.  If you off you get the ...



#28 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 04:10 PM

Interesting thing I learned from this, I drew a lucky straw with my car being manufactured 6/13/13.  Apparently according to the above no wire issues should be present in the rear liftgate and such.

 

I have not done any of this other reprogramming they are talking about, while its there I never had a problem with my 12v battery so why should I do it.  If it ain't broke don't fix it (for me).

 

-=>Raja.



#29 OFFLINE   cr08

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 07:08 PM

I got the same (incorrect) brake issue in the  report when I ran the vehicle health report.    Taking it back to the dealer who already got $600 for needless reprogramming and inspections.  My fluid is pristine and the brakes are fine.   Since we both got the same brake report I am willing to bet it is wrong.

 

$125 for the flash sounds a lot better when compared to $600 for the flash and wiring harness looksee.

 

I'm curious if they ever fixed the earlier Sync 1 VHR brake issue. Basically if you have the parking brake set, which lights the brake light on the dash, it will come up as a brake issue in the VHR.



#30 OFFLINE   Perry Knopp

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 03:22 AM

 For those with the recent problems does your car have the foot activated lift gate? I only ask as I quit using mine and have experienced no new problems. No, to quit using options Ford used to sell a car is not the solution, just trying to narrow things down in the mean time.

 

 I came from a 2012 VW TDI. Along with their recent issues they had problems with intercooling icing which would cause the car to hydrolock or if you are lucky, simply hard to start. VW came up with a fix that didn't really fix it. Those of use with the issues did come up with work arounds that did pretty much work. 



#31 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 05:38 AM

Got the car in 2 of 13. Built 12 of 12.

Use the foot activated lift for surfboards, kid gear, and hands full loading probably 10-20% of lift gate usage, but use the key fob for work opening the hatch and the majority of uses. Had a warranty repair on it a year and a half ago and it works well.


I test drove the earlier TDI spotwagon and really enjoyed it. Friend bought an 11 here and shipped it to Europe when he move to CH in 13. Nice driving car, emissions proved suspect.

Pretty frustrating when the fix is a flunk.

Parking break was probably on since I probably can the VHR immediately after the AAA jump and before moving the vehicle.



Can't go wrong when you have two 13s on a Thursday build date.


Wife taking it back to the shop today. They will at least get the latch recall done that they failed to do when the door panels were off for the unnecessary wiring harness inspection.

Edited by altabrig, 18 May 2017 - 05:41 AM.

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#32 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 08:47 AM

As far as the brake report the adviser said if the parking/emergency brake is on it activates the brake light in the instrument cluster. The diagnostics "watch" this light and if it is "on" will throw the warning, no matter if it is a real issue or just that you set the brake. Must be true as the second report later ran without any faults. (Brake fluid level was in between min and max).

I definitely suspect some sort of MFM wake up event was sent to the cars, and because ours were just sitting, drained the batteries.

As an FYI to anyone in my area. I was picking up a bottle of brake fluid at Wondries Ford in Alhambra, and decided to ask about the door latch recall and the ABS programming, on Monday. I went to the service area and spoke to one, which said I could bring it in and give him 2 days to get the recall done. Sure enough, the car was ready Tuesday for the latch recall. We went to pick it up Wednesday because I was busy that night before and my wife was at work late. The dealer that explained the brake warning had set her up for a June 5th appointment, much later availability, for the door latch recall.

Edited by jzchen, 18 May 2017 - 08:48 AM.


#33 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 08:59 AM

As far as the brake report the adviser said if the parking/emergency brake is on it activates the brake light in the instrument cluster. The diagnostics "watch" this light and if it is "on" will throw the warning, no matter if it is a real issue or just that you set the brake. Must be true as the second report later ran without any faults. (Brake fluid level was in between min and max).

I definitely suspect some sort of MFM wake up event was sent to the cars, and because ours were just sitting, drained the batteries.

As an FYI to anyone in my area. I was picking up a bottle of brake fluid at Wondries Ford in Alhambra, and decided to ask about the door latch recall and the ABS programming, on Monday. I went to the service area and spoke to one, which said I could bring it in and give him 2 days to get the recall done. Sure enough, the car was ready Tuesday for the latch recall. We went to pick it up Wednesday because I was busy that night before and my wife was at work late. The dealer that explained the brake warning had set her up for a June 5th appointment, much later availability, for the door latch recall.

 

When getting the door latch recall completed make sure you inspect each of the interior for panels after the work in completed. I now need to set up a new appointment to fix a loose door panel that causes the door to jam. It can't be opened without freeing the panel from the weatherstripping on the latch side of the door. Fixing the jam is header because there is a child's carseat next to that door. This would of shown up sooner but I was not using that rear door much until recently. The other three doors were ok.

 

Tom



#34 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 09:05 AM

When getting the door latch recall completed make sure you inspect each of the interior for panels after the work in completed. I now need to set up a new appointment to fix a loose door panel that causes the door to jam. It can't be opened without freeing the panel from the weatherstripping on the latch side of the door. Fixing the jam is header because there is a child's carseat next to that door. This would of shown up sooner but I was not using that rear door much until recently. The other three doors were ok.

 

Tom

Earlier recall work and the dealership did not install the weatherstripping correctly,   anther time they scratched the front pillar trim,  another scratched the front wheel paint the last one they did not install the wiring flex tube cover into the hatch so the harness was just hanging out.

 

QC is not a strength especially when buttoning up the easy stuff like push pins in panels and weatherstripping.



#35 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 10:54 AM

Looks like the FORD SERVICE rep/liason on our forum went AWOL a year ago.

 

Not good.

 

http://fordcmaxenerg...19-fordservice/



#36 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 12:11 PM

My wife picked up the car after another 1.5 days in the shop (Theodore Robbins Ford in Costa Mesa).   The dealer could not replicate the dead battery and said the car has no problems.   On top of that, they gave no valuable information.   Pretty much past 2 strikes.   Each interaction has been painful.   What happened to customer service?

 

 

 They couldn't replicate it before when I dropped off the car for a new battery (which I did not get).   They tested the battery and told me it was holding charge and proceeded with the TSB work that did nothing because I  still had a dead car within a week. 

 

They gave me a $600 inspection and reprogram of the modules and I have the same problem 5 days later.   They did do the latch recall this time which they should have done last time.

 

 

Not sure to start with the dealer for reimbursement for unnecessary work that fixed nothing or go straight to FORD?  I had a member PM me a suggestion about posting reviews which may help any other suggestions welcome (aside from the guy on the fusion site who wants to tout his choice of buying an extended warranty.)   IMO this is both and Engineering problem caused by FORD, not normal wear and tear, and a dealership issue for not properly diagnosing the problem and doing unecessary work that gave no results due to the same issue (dead battery) repeating.

 

My guess is that if I had just bought a battery late last Thursday from an Autozone 15 miles away (the only 67R battery I could find local) and installed it, I wouldn't be experiencing the dead battery issue.

 

From NHTSA website:

 

https://www.nhtsa.go.../FWD#complaints

 

NHTSA ID Number: 10916481

Incident Date October 17, 2016

Consumer Location CHARLESTON, SC

Vehicle Identification Number 1FADP5BU9DL****

Summary of Complaint

CRASHNo

FIRENo

INJURIES0

DEATHS0

WE PURCHASED THIS CAR USED IN SEPTEMBER, 2016 AND IT HAD 33,000 MILES ON IT. ONE WEEK AFTER WE BOUGHT IT WE RETURNED TO THE CAR FROM DINNER AND FOUND IT WOULDN'T START. HAD IT JUMPED AND CONTINUED ON OUR WAY. ONE WEEK AGO WE WENT TO START THE CAR AFTER IT SAT IN THE DRIVEWAY OVERNIGHT AND THE SAME THING: BATTERY WAS DEAD. WE HAD IT JUMPED. THIS MORNING, AFTER SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY OVERNIGHT, IT WOULDN'T START AGAIN, BATTERY DEAD. THIS IS THE THIRD TIME IN JUST OVER A MONTH OUR BATTERY HAS GONE DEAD. 

THIS SITE IS FULL OF REPORTS OF THIS HAPPENING, AND FORD DEALERS ARE UNABLE TO FIX THE PROBLEM. WHY HASN'T THIS CAR BEEN RECALLED? FORD NEEDS TO OFFER REPLACEMENT VEHICLES TO ANYONE UNFORTUNATE ENOUGH TO HAVE PURCHASED ONE OF THESE LEMONS.

 

NHTSA ID Number: 10884517

Incident Date July 30, 2014

Consumer Location CALHOUN CITY, MS

Vehicle Identification Number 1FADP5AU9DL****

Summary of Complaint

CRASHNo

FIRENo

INJURIES0

DEATHS0

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD C-MAX. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED THREE WEEKS LATER. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC; HOWEVER; THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 300.

NHTSA ID Number: 10862914

Incident Date May 2, 2016

Consumer Location PITTSBURG, CA

Vehicle Identification Number 1FADP5CU5DL****

Summary of Complaint

CRASHNo

FIRENo

INJURIES0

DEATHS0

MY CAR FAILED TO START FOR 2 CONSECUTIVE DAYS AFTER NON-OPERATION OVERNIGHT AND WHEN I TOOK THE DEALERSHIP THEY SAID THEY NEED TO PERFORM A TSB 15-0089, SINCE MY CAR WAS OUT OF WARRANTY LESS THAN 2 MONTHS, FORD SAID I NEED TO PAY $1500 TO FIX THIS ISSUE. BASED ON RESEARCH THIS ISSUES SEEMS TO AFFECT MULTIPLE VEHICLES IN THIS CATEGORY AND FORD IS NOT OWNING UP TO FIXING THIS ISSUE THAT IS AFFECTING THESE CARS.


Edited by altabrig, 19 May 2017 - 03:34 PM.


#37 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 02:08 AM

The dealerships have pretty good battery testers, so I'm not sure it is the battery.  You are more than welcome for me to test it if you are ever in my area, although I must confess I still have not retrieved the plastic spatula I accidentally dropped on the side of the battery because I am not sure how to remove the multitude of items necessary to get to it.  (I have an AutoXray 6000 EZ-Scanner with Battery tester, which I recently found out was a Midtronics tester...)  All I did was flash the PCM, and then was forced to have the dealer do the ABS.  (I did not confirm that they actually did do the ABS flash.  I trusted the guy that they did so.)  I'm afraid my subscription to Ford Module Programming has passed, so it would be another $33 to sign up for another 72 hours, but I would be able to flash the PCM for you.  So far no dead battery since.  If you really want a battery you might try www.fordparts.com and select one there.  I think on past research getting it through a Ford parts counter might actually be cheaper.  If something software related is draining it though, you might start having trouble with the new one eventually.  Another possibility is some sort of bad/poor grounding.  I found working with the battery connections when disconnecting the negative side that there is not much room at all.  Not enough for me to get my battery terminal cleaner tool in to clean the terminals....

 

My wife does around 40 miles round trip to work, so I am not sure if there's a difference between ours when it comes to use.  There is a concern with normal gas cars when driving short distances only about draining the battery.  The day of the start issue she did drive around 30 to 35 miles to the Anaheim Convention Center at around 6 in the morning, and then had starting issues around 2:30 pm when she was leaving.



#38 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 02:13 AM

When getting the door latch recall completed make sure you inspect each of the interior for panels after the work in completed. I now need to set up a new appointment to fix a loose door panel that causes the door to jam. It can't be opened without freeing the panel from the weatherstripping on the latch side of the door. Fixing the jam is header because there is a child's carseat next to that door. This would of shown up sooner but I was not using that rear door much until recently. The other three doors were ok.

 

Tom

 

I did not check all the doors.  Thank you for the warning!  That is horrible workmanship!!!!  (1 bad one out of 4 is 75% success rate!)


Edited by jzchen, 20 May 2017 - 02:13 AM.


#39 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 02:19 AM

Another note about your battery if it keeps getting drained.  From past experience if a battery is drained more than once, which seems the case for yours, it is usually in bad shape/damaged and may need replacing....



#40 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 04:53 AM

I did not check all the doors.  Thank you for the warning!  That is horrible workmanship!!!!  (1 bad one out of 4 is 75% success rate!)

 

I had the door jam again where the loose internal door panel got caught in the weather stripping preventing the door from opening. I finally got some time to look the door over closely and found that there are several alignment pins that need to be positioned correctly then one screw at the bottom center of the panel. It was that screw that came loose(Or was not properly tightened at the time of the latch recall.) Anyway I aligned the pins and tightened the screw so the door panel is now secured. Too bad it happened but appears to be an easy fix.

 

Tom











Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: electrical problems software, electrical problems, charging problems, 12v battery problems, software update, wiring problems, modules, charge cord problem, charger, charge fault -not charging

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