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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Radio quit. Any ideas?


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23 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Perry Knopp

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 12:58 PM

 Was playing a thumb drive.....turned car off. Turned back on and no sound. I can see what is supposed to be playing but no sound. On the dash it says "Audio Off". I can't change sources. Voice command won't work.

 

 Any ideas? 

 

 Will a fuse reset maybe work?









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#2 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 01:06 PM

Will not hurt to try



#3 OFFLINE   Perry Knopp

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 03:15 PM

 Oddest thing........After posting this I had to leave again. I'm driving down the road when the radio just comes on. I guess things froze for a bit. Dunno.



#4 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 05:13 PM

I fixed it thru Osmosis, beauty of working in IT, bill is in the mail :)


  • fotomoto and Perry Knopp like this

#5 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 05:15 PM

^^^ That's not what you say...you're supposed to say I logged into the VPN and fixed it for you :)

 

-=>Raja.



#6 OFFLINE   Joshg678

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Posted 18 April 2017 - 07:14 PM

^^^ That's not what you say...you're supposed to say I logged into the VPN and fixed it for you :)

-=>Raja.

More like "works for me"

#7 OFFLINE   Perry Knopp

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Posted 05 May 2017 - 12:49 PM

 It happened again but this time it didn't start working.......did some research.....from what I gather it happens from too much input perhaps from sources like a thumb drive. Or so that is the guess.

 

 If it ever happens pull fuse 79. Give it a few moments when you turn it back on to reset itself. Should work



#8 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 06 May 2017 - 04:35 AM

I have had this loss of sound on a number of occasions in my 2013 CMax. When the sound loss occurs it is not just the radio but all tones, beeps, no voice from GPS of voice controls. Makes for a very quite car. I had not had this issue for most of the winter until yesterday. It always seem to occur when I am playing podcasts using bluetooth. The odd thing is that the podcast starts to play then cuts out and all sound is lost. The center display shows connecting indication but does not respond to anything related to entertainment. Can't even power off/on the radio. The other screens can be selected. Each time this loss of sound happens if the car is turned off and left off for a few minutes the sound will return when the car is turn on the next time. I have never had to pull a fuse to correct this problem. This only happens once in a great while even though I use the bluetooth connection most of the time. During this last occurrence I noticed that there were text message notifications coming in although I could not play them due to the lost sound. Since reproducing it is not possible I have no ever been able to have Ford service check it out. 

 

Tom



#9 OFFLINE   Perry Knopp

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Posted 06 May 2017 - 06:22 AM

That's my experience. From what I've read it mostly happens when you are using a source other than radio. Last time it came back on itself. It didn't this time.



#10 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 14 May 2017 - 09:32 AM

Happened a long time ago that the volume wouldn't change. Upon restarting the car a few times during normal use function came back. I'd pull the neg battery cable before bringing it to the dealer, especially if out of warranty.

#11 OFFLINE   stolenmoment

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 04:17 PM

I've got these same symptoms now.  No touch beeps, no audio; I also use Bluetooth almost exclusively.

 

On my commute this morning, the volume controls and touch beeps stopped working, but the audio kept playing.  This evening, no audio at all.

 

The oddest things are that the little histogram at the bottom left that displays when I adjust the volume (wheel buttons or dash dial) isn't there, and the on/off dash button is ineffective; like the controls are disconnected.

 

It's the first freezing weather here in New England so far this year; that's probably connected...



#12 OFFLINE   cr08

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 07:42 PM

I've posted about it elsewhere. But essentially the way they have it set up is there are two main modules of concern in the audio system: The ACM which handles all audio routing, volume controls, radio and sirius tuners. The APIM mostly just handles the bluetooth, USB, aux inputs, and nav. The APIM merely feeds the audio to the ACM for output and sends commands to it for stuff like volume, tuning radio/sirius, etc.. What is essentially happening is the ACM is freezing/locking up and the APIM is no longer able to communicate with it which accounts for the symptoms most people see. For once this is a scenario that Sync is not the issue. 

 

EDIT: Should also add there is the ANC (Active Noise Cancellation) module in the mix. The ACM sends audio through that which then takes input from the microphones, mixes them in, and goes out to the speakers. Though outside of the usual reported issues of odd noises, there haven't been any major showstopping bugs here. One side note if you check out the wiring diagrams the center speaker bypasses the ANC module and comes straight from the ACM. This explains why if you end up restarting the car or going from Accessory to Run, the center speaker is the only speaker active for a moment.



#13 OFFLINE   stolenmoment

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 07:38 AM

Thanks for the explanation!  That makes sense out of my symptoms.

 

Which fuse powers the ACM?  Has pulling it helped anybody?  Mine is still out this morning.


Edited by stolenmoment, 10 November 2017 - 07:39 AM.


#14 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 07:59 AM

Stolenmoment, 

 

If you're still having problems, you may try to disconnect the 12v battery for a minute and put it back.  Its equal to pulling all fuses, won't hurt anything and its not that bad in regards to the radio I will still hold the presets.  You will just have to relearn the coach bars back to full blue and your EV range will reset to 20 miles or so, that's it.

 

-=>Raja.



#15 OFFLINE   cr08

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 08:15 AM

Yeah. The fuses people have documented so far still come into play. If that doesn't solve it, try the battery method rbort mentioned.



#16 OFFLINE   stolenmoment

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 12:18 PM

I put off disconnecting the battery because we were on vacation all last week.  We left the car unplugged from paranoia.  The MFM app stopped updating after the second or third day, no "low battery" notice.  Got home and jump-started it, and the audio is back.

 

So yeah, pulling the power was the right answer, and the car did it for me.  Count that as good or bad, your choice!

 

Got the bars all back up after a short trip or two...



#17 OFFLINE   Levi Smith

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Posted 21 November 2017 - 06:31 AM

I put off disconnecting the battery because we were on vacation all last week.  We left the car unplugged from paranoia.  The MFM app stopped updating after the second or third day, no "low battery" notice.  Got home and jump-started it, and the audio is back.

 

I'm not clear on whether you left the battery unplugged during this time or not...

 

Either way, there wouldn't be a low battery notice if you unplugged the battery, or if it was connected and it still kept enough charge(which is what I *think* you did.)

 

But yeah, I was wondering what the length of time is for "sleep mode" to kick in.  I just left mine for about 3.5 days and it was still responding to  me this morning.  But I recall a trip a month or so ago when I left it for maybe 4 or 5 days and MFM told me it the car was in "sleep mode" and would require physically touching/starting the car to wake it back up.  However, the remote start from the keyfob did still work before actually starting the car.



#18 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 21 November 2017 - 07:40 AM

Yes they do go into sleep.  But like I said when I travel and leave the car I put a jump on i and leave it that way to avoid any 12v battery issues.

 

-=>Raja.



#19 OFFLINE   Levi Smith

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Posted 21 November 2017 - 07:47 AM

Yes they do go into sleep.  But like I said when I travel and leave the car I put a jump on i and leave it that way to avoid any 12v battery issues.

 

-=>Raja.

I left mine plugged in to avoid any 12V issues.  yes, I realize this isn't ideal for the HVB charge level(I think my laptop is the only device I've ever had with an actual option to keep the battery charge at a "healthy" level instead of "maximum" level.)

 

However, as far as the 12V, I wonder for sure if the car still would keep itself charged.  I'd like to think that if it woke itself up enough to send out a "low 12V" message via MFM that it would fire up the EVSE connection to charge itself up like it seems to do if I open a door, etc when plugged in.  But I have my suspicions the car may just be stupid enough to shut EVSE connection off, the 12V goes low/dead and never bothers to charge itself as needed...



#20 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 21 November 2017 - 08:18 AM

It could be tested, when there is a will there is a way.

 

Plug it in and charge it up, leave the hood open so you can access the battery terminals for jumping.  

 

Once full put a load on the battery so it starts dropping, and then see if the charger kicks in or not.

 

However, I still like my idea better, open the hood and connect a jump to the battery with another bigger battery.  Then you can leave the HVB sit at 20% instead of 100 and with my 100 amp deep cycle battery the 12v battery is now alot "bigger" and will last a month with no problems at all.

 

-=>Raja.










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