My wife and I just got a 2013 C-Max Energi 3 months ago and I was wondering if there is anything that you guys/gals have done beyond the recommended service schedule? I got the car with under 12K miles on it and now I am up to about 17K miles. I was going to do do the cabin air filter and engine air filter at 20K and I have already done my own oil change (Valvoline Synpower 0w-20/Fram Ultra). Seeing how the vehicle is going on 3 years old I was thinking about doing a brake line flush. Does anyone know if there is anything different about doing a brake line flush on this vehicle vs most other vehicles?
For the curious, we paid ~$17,800 for this 2013 C-Max Energi with the 303A package, 11,979 miles, no recorded accidents, no dents, and no underbody rust. In addition, the previous owner kept the receipts in the glovebox for two oil changes at the Ford dealer, four $250+ detailing packages, as well as two Krown underbody coatings, so it appears as if they took good care of her. We were looking at others for around the $13-15K mark but a majority of them came from NYC or NJ and usually had lower option packages, recorded accidents, lots of dents, scuffs, and they all had underbody rust. Ours was first titled in January 2014, so when we bought it we still had 1 year/24K miles of bumper to bumper warranty remaining, this is actually perfect because I typically do 24K miles per year.
So I ended up using a brake fluid tester and found that the fluid in my master cylinder contained approximately 3% water. I also pulled a sample from a rear caliper and found that the fluid contained in excess of 4% water. After seeing this amount of water, I ended up flushing the entire system. After seeing how much water made it into the system over 3 years, I am going to be doing a flush every 2 years. I've had two brake lines rust out from the inside-out in other cars (both were GM cars), I'm not going to let it happen to this car.
I find it suspicious that Ford did not list "change brake fluid" on the maintenance schedule for this vehicle. Pretty much every other manufacturer lists it as a requirement every 2-3 years due to the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid. I suspect that Ford did not list it to keep the "cost of ownership" figures down.
As I originally suspected, when the vehicle is in park or neutral the hydraulic brake system does all the work so it was as simple as doing a regular brake fluid change.
Breaker bar with 19MM deep socket or a tire-iron(for lug nuts)
Torque wrench (to properly torque lug nuts after the fact)
10mm box wrench
One-man brake bleeding kit
Turkey baster (to suck out the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir)
Empty soda bottle for the old fluid
32 oz. or more of fresh DOT 4 brake fluid (do not use a previously opened bottle)
1. Using a turkey baster, remove the old fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replenish it with fresh fluid.
2. Jack up car and take off wheel (the order is going to be: right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front).
3. Put the 10mm box wrench onto the brake bleeder.
4. Remove bleeder cap and put inlet end of your one-man brake bleeding set-up onto the brake bleeder. Put the other end into your disposal bottle.
5. Open the brake bleeder 1/4-1/2 turns.
6. Let the system gravity bleed until your check valve or until the used fluid hits the fluid level in your disposal bottle.
7. Pump the brake pedal until you see clear or lighter colored fluid coming from the bleeder. MAKE SURE YOU TOP OFF THE MASTER CYLINDER FREQUENTLY!
8. Close the bleeder. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
9. Reinstall bleeder cap and wheel.
10. Retorque lug nuts to 100 ft./lbs.
11. Repeat steps 2-10 for the remaining wheels.
Total time: .5-1.5 hours depending on skill/confidence level.
Total cost (assuming you have all the basic tools): $6 for 32 oz. of Valvoline Full Synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid at Advance Auto Parts. $16 if you need fluid and a one-man bleeding kit.
Edited by fotomoto, 20 July 2016 - 09:28 AM.