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Rear hatch difficult to open


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7 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Cory Wilson

Cory Wilson

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  • Region:U.S. Great Lakes
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  • My C-MAX:2013
  • Current Vehicle:2013 C-MAX Energi

Posted 12 April 2016 - 12:16 PM

When we bought our cmax just under a month ago the latch seemed to work just fine. About a week and a half ago, my wife told me she was having difficulty opening it. I messed with it and sure enough wouldn't open unless you push it down slightly and then pull it up. I took a screw driver and moved the latch open and close and it fixed it for a week but now it's doing it again. Still under a month so I can take it to the dealer, should I? Just kind of a long drive from where I live trying to avoid it if I can. Have heard issues about it closing before, but can't find anything about it opening. Thanks
  • phaskew likes this







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#2 OFFLINE   rafacq

rafacq

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  • Region:U.S. Southern Plains
  • LocationDallas
  • Current Vehicle:Oxford White CMAX Energy

Posted 13 April 2016 - 04:36 AM

Mine has the electric motor to open the hatch and have not had any issues in 19 months. Every once in a while the foot sensor fails and you have to try 2 or 3 times, but in general works well. Really handy when your hands are full!



#3 OFFLINE   fotomoto

fotomoto

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  • Region:U.S. Southern Plains
  • LocationSouth Texas
  • Current Vehicle:CMAX

Posted 13 April 2016 - 04:52 AM

IIRC there was a service bulletin early on about the gate on the 2013's.  It may have been the latch mechanism itself or simply needing readjustment.  You should search the hybrid forum for this issue:  http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/



#4 OFFLINE   timwil56

timwil56

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  • My C-MAX:2017
  • Current Vehicle:Fusion SE

Posted 13 April 2016 - 07:36 AM

If i's under warranty, take it to the dealer.



#5 OFFLINE   cmwv

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 05:49 PM

I have had the same problem as Cory. If I stick a finger or two up into the latch mechanism and move it--sort of open and close--then it works normally again for some time. I'm guessing it just needs some lubrication but haven't gotten around to spraying a bit of WD-40 in there yet. It's definitely annoying when it happens, usually with arms full of something or other.



#6 OFFLINE   cmwv

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:48 PM

Turns out mine needed a new latch assembly; $159 for the part, $110 for labor. A cool $269 out of my pocket because out of warranty.



#7 OFFLINE   E-Max

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 06:14 AM

My 2013 C-Max energi with power liftgate had a problem with the liftgate yesterday morning.  The problem was the liftgate started to open, with a noise associated with opening being heard, but then did not completely unlatch and was ajar but would not open.  My wife had to drive to work in the other car and I spent 3-1/2 hours of my day to diagnosis and fix the problem.

 

To start with I had to get the liftgate open by working from inside the car.  I removed the floor trim at the rear of the trunk/luggage area and gained access to the two hatch door striker bolts(#40 torx head bolts) and removed them.  The door then could be raised up with the striker ring and a piece of floor molding rising up with the door.  :))  The latch then finally popped open the rest of the way and the striker and trim piece fell on the ground.  :(

 

After removing the interior hatch door trim I gained access to the latch release assembly and disagnosised the problem being two issues,

1)  a lever which attaches to a cable(this is the cable that leads to a motor that is used to pull down the hatch and finish the latching process for a power hatch), this lever needed to be lubed with grease(oil would work but won't last as long).   This lever was seizing up due to lack of lubrication and was not tracking the intended motion and seated in the right position to let the latch completed disengage from the striker.

2) a second issue with this lever is that a small coil spring intended to pull or return the lever to its proper seated position was not applying enough force.  I removed this spring and replaced with slightly higher spring rate(spring force) part I had laying around.  You cold find a bit stiffer spring to put in at a hardware store.

 

All this said I saved $120 part cost(according to the dealer the replacement part is AM5Z-5843150-D, a revised part number(vs. my 2013 model)  and bunch of labor cost vs. taking this into the dealer.

 

Not happy this happened with this 5 year old, 83,000 mile car.  Had two bent wheels to replace recently as well as a bad internal combustion engine #1 fuel injector.   :((   Not use to this many problems before 150,00 miles on my cars.


Edited by E-Max, 10 April 2018 - 06:18 AM.


#8 OFFLINE   spirilis

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 08:59 AM

My 2013 C-Max energi with power liftgate had a problem with the liftgate yesterday morning.  The problem was the liftgate started to open, with a noise associated with opening being heard, but then did not completely unlatch and was ajar but would not open.  My wife had to drive to work in the other car and I spent 3-1/2 hours of my day to diagnosis and fix the problem.

 

To start with I had to get the liftgate open by working from inside the car.  I removed the floor trim at the rear of the trunk/luggage area and gained access to the two hatch door striker bolts(#40 torx head bolts) and removed them.  The door then could be raised up with the striker ring and a piece of floor molding rising up with the door.  :))  The latch then finally popped open the rest of the way and the striker and trim piece fell on the ground.   :(

 

After removing the interior hatch door trim I gained access to the latch release assembly and disagnosised the problem being two issues,

1)  a lever which attaches to a cable(this is the cable that leads to a motor that is used to pull down the hatch and finish the latching process for a power hatch), this lever needed to be lubed with grease(oil would work but won't last as long).   This lever was seizing up due to lack of lubrication and was not tracking the intended motion and seated in the right position to let the latch completed disengage from the striker.

2) a second issue with this lever is that a small coil spring intended to pull or return the lever to its proper seated position was not applying enough force.  I removed this spring and replaced with slightly higher spring rate(spring force) part I had laying around.  You cold find a bit stiffer spring to put in at a hardware store.

 

All this said I saved $120 part cost(according to the dealer the replacement part is AM5Z-5843150-D, a revised part number(vs. my 2013 model)  and bunch of labor cost vs. taking this into the dealer.

 

Not happy this happened with this 5 year old, 83,000 mile car.  Had two bent wheels to replace recently as well as a bad internal combustion engine #1 fuel injector.   :((   Not use to this many problems before 150,00 miles on my cars.

Any chance you could post some pics of these components?  (have a 2017 but, I love learning from these sort of incidents so I can be proactive and lubricate those pieces in a year or 2...)










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