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How to replace 12v battery in energi???


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41 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 11 May 2017 - 08:24 PM

Mine died today. Had to call AAA. Had about 9 MFM alerts in 20 minutes about a low 12v battery. Went out from work and needed a key to get in the car. AAA doesn't sell the 67r nor does Costco. Just gonna get a motorcraft instead of an AutoZone duralast or wasting any more time hunting a 67r on the internet. I got 4 years and 3 months out of it.

After the jump the drivers front window was doing unpleasant things. No auto up but when it reaches the top after hiding the switch all the way up it reverses on its own all the way down. Hope that stops.


On another note I am down below 4kw charge capacity after 43k miles with probably 35 of those EV. Any one else with similar decline in their traction battery capacity? I am wondering if some cells went bad?







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#22 OFFLINE   James2

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Posted 14 May 2017 - 05:31 AM

I think a 96r will fit if you take the battery box out and trim the spacer in the back of the box out. It's a larger battery and is cheaper, easier to find. If I ever try to replace mine again, I going to try it.The 96r is about 1/4 of an inch longer.

 

Ford messed up and should have put a deep cycle battery in these cars.



#23 OFFLINE   JonC

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 06:27 PM

Mine died today. Had to call AAA. Had about 9 MFM alerts in 20 minutes about a low 12v battery. Went out from work and needed a key to get in the car. AAA doesn't sell the 67r nor does Costco. Just gonna get a motorcraft instead of an AutoZone duralast or wasting any more time hunting a 67r on the internet. I got 4 years and 3 months out of it.

After the jump the drivers front window was doing unpleasant things. No auto up but when it reaches the top after hiding the switch all the way up it reverses on its own all the way down. Hope that stops.


On another note I am down below 4kw charge capacity after 43k miles with probably 35 of those EV. Any one else with similar decline in their traction battery capacity? I am wondering if some cells went bad?

Yeah, some of your cells went bad.  I'm seeing over 5.3 at 92k. 

 

And there is definitely some weirdness when the 12v battery dies.  I had all the windows stop responding for a day once.  After I stopped accidentally leaving the refrigerator plugged in, it stopped going dead, so there's that.  (Yes, a cooler with a Peltier, in the cargo area, where it can take the 12v all the way down.  Oops.  Having a spare charged 12v battery and some jumper cables came in really handy a few times.)

 

I don't know if my 12v has ever been replaced, I got the car at 75k, no record of it having been, but I don't really know.  The one I have has charged right back up once I hit it with power.



#24 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 06:47 PM

Yeah. I figured that some HVB cells were gonners. NOT COOL.


The 12v is one I should have DIY'D. At I would have been able to rule it out as causitive in the battery issue, rather than symptomatic of something else that the dealer can't diagnose.

#25 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 05:09 AM

Mine died today. Had to call AAA. Had about 9 MFM alerts in 20 minutes about a low 12v battery. Went out from work and needed a key to get in the car. AAA doesn't sell the 67r nor does Costco. Just gonna get a motorcraft instead of an AutoZone duralast or wasting any more time hunting a 67r on the internet. I got 4 years and 3 months out of it.

After the jump the drivers front window was doing unpleasant things. No auto up but when it reaches the top after hiding the switch all the way up it reverses on its own all the way down. Hope that stops.


On another note I am down below 4kw charge capacity after 43k miles with probably 35 of those EV. Any one else with similar decline in their traction battery capacity? I am wondering if some cells went bad?

I have also lost around 1kWh in capacity in the HVB. I don't think it is bad cells. I monitor the HVB with a ScanGauge and have checks individual cell voltages, average cell voltages variation in cell voltages among others. What I have found is that there are almost no variation in voltages between different cells. The most striking indications is that the peak cell voltage is dropped. This i believe is related to the lost capacity. 

If in fact you were right about bad cells, Ford service should have no trouble diagnosing the issue and the HVB should be covered under warrantee. 

It has been my experience with Ford service that unless the HVB were to raise diagnostic error code they will be very reluctant to do anything. Naturally there are no code raised due to the lost capacity that I have experienced.

 

Tom



#26 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 05:20 AM

I am only speculating. Perhaps all cells are just degrading in a more rapid rate than expected at time of purchase.

The scan tool sound like it has some useful features for monitoring the cmax.

Perhaps Ford service would do something if the HVB has a catastrophic failure - perhaps.

Edited by altabrig, 20 May 2017 - 05:21 AM.


#27 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 22 May 2017 - 06:02 AM

Pictures tell a 1000 words....

Hopefully helpful. 😁

Attached Files


Edited by jzchen, 22 May 2017 - 06:05 AM.


#28 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 22 May 2017 - 06:24 AM

I was really tempted to take off that orange/meaning high voltage, connector, and I even tried sliding the white tab back and tried pulling off the black part. I was unsuccessful. The battery comes out vertically, rotate the side towards the back of the car up. Don't forget to pull the drain connection! I almost did. No electrolyte spilled out! Not a single drop.

#29 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 22 May 2017 - 07:03 AM

I think a 96r will fit if you take the battery box out and trim the spacer in the back of the box out. It's a larger battery and is cheaper, easier to find. If I ever try to replace mine again, I going to try it.The 96r is about 1/4 of an inch longer.

Ford messed up and should have put a deep cycle battery in these cars.


1/4 inch is very little. It might fit just fine if that is the case. I hurt my fingers some and do not want to do this again. Specs on the Odyssey AGM battery seem to say it is taller. There is very little room above the battery and there is concern as it seems shorter length wise.

Maybe the 1/4 inch difference is why it is recommended by some...

I will research and report what I can find to fit...

#30 OFFLINE   Levi Smith

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Posted 22 May 2017 - 09:20 AM

Mine died today. Had to call AAA. Had about 9 MFM alerts in 20 minutes about a low 12v battery. Went out from work and needed a key to get in the car. AAA doesn't sell the 67r nor does Costco. Just gonna get a motorcraft instead of an AutoZone duralast or wasting any more time hunting a 67r on the internet. I got 4 years and 3 months out of it.

After the jump the drivers front window was doing unpleasant things. No auto up but when it reaches the top after hiding the switch all the way up it reverses on its own all the way down. Hope that stops.
 

 

The windows and sunshade(if you have the pano roof) have an initialization procedure after power loss that you're supposed to do to retrain them for the bounce back feature.  Some don't seem to need it.

The procedure is in the manual.  As I recall, it's mostly just holding the window up button for a few seconds after it's reached the top, and then back down for each window...



#31 OFFLINE   altabrig

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Posted 22 May 2017 - 11:16 AM

^ Thank you for the information.  I will find it in the manual.

 

Interesting about the drain tube connection to the 12v.  Have not seen that before.



#32 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 22 May 2017 - 02:40 PM

Got a T4 from CarQuest/Advance Auto Parts. Purchased online for pick-up with 30% off. It is exactly the same size, or actually a little smaller. The top of the 67R flares out whereas the T4 does not. Base looked exactly the same size! 470 CCA and 70 mins reserve capacity. They took the 67R as a core and refunded me the core charge.

I ended up disconnecting the orange plug so I didn't need to completely tilt the new battery on end and risk losing electrolyte. Press back end and slide back to first resistance. Insert screw driver into little crack in between the "buttons" and carefully pry upwards to get over the second set of bumps holding it from fully coming out.

#33 OFFLINE   pippin65

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 04:19 PM

The advance auto T4 battery fits. It is tough the first time. I could probably do it in 30 minutes the next time I did one.

#34 OFFLINE   cpreovol

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Posted 09 December 2017 - 11:25 AM

FWIW, I made a video on installing a new 12V battery based on the instructions in the thread: 

 

 


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#35 OFFLINE   Dlang14

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 11:00 AM

I just replaced my 12V battery at 37 months old.  Ford didn't waste any money on a battery that lasted a lot longer than the warranty.  This isn't a real easy service job and you shouldn't attempt it unless you are comfortable working around high current batteries and can lift and maneuver a 30 pound battery through a tight space.  Two tools you will need are a Torx T-25 driver and an 8mm socket wrench.  It's best to have a 1/4" ratchet with an extension for the 8mm socket.  Some places need a long reach and others don't have head room for a long tool.  Some other useful tools are a Torx T-30 driver, 10mm, and 13mm sockets. 

 

Be aware that even "dead" batteries are dangerous.  They can cause serious burns and can explode and blind you with a spray of sulfuric acid.  Always wear eye protection when working around batteries.

 

To replace the battery be sure the car is off and not plugged into AC power.  Remove everything from the rear storage tray including the rubber mat.  Also remove the small panel that holds the fuel funnel.  You will see four T-25 screws and a 10mm nut that secure the tray.  If you don't have a 10mm socket, you should be able to use pliers on the nut since it has some space around it.  Remove the screws and nut and lift out the tray.  Next lift up the edge of the carpet above the tray.  There are some velcro strips that hold down the carpet.  You will see four screws that secure the panel above the tray.  These screws can be removed with a Torx T-30 driver or a large flat blade screwdriver.  After removing the four screws, you can lift off the panel.

 

Now you should have a good view of the battery and the two air ducts above it.  At this point, I would recommend that you cut out a square of cardboard and tape it over the positive battery connections that are closest to the rear bumper.  Dropping a tool and shorting the battery would not be a pleasant experience.  You will see four 8mm head screws that secure the two air ducts.  There are also three plastic fasteners.  Two are clearly visible and the third is hidden under the top duct.  Remove the four screws and pull out the center parts of the plastic fasteners.  The center of each fastener is like a big thumb tack and you will see a small notch to get a pry tool under the head.  Once the centers are pulled out of the three fasteners, you should be able to easily remove the upper and then lower air ducts.

 

Reach around the back of the battery and pull the vent tube towards the front of the car and out of the battery.  Tuck it under something or tie it out of the way.  Directly in front of the battery is an 8mm bolt that secures the battery clamp.  Use a socket with an extension or a nut driver to remove the bolt and hold down clamp.  Next loosen the 8mm clamp nut on the negative battery terminal.  That is the terminal towards the front of the car.  Remove the connector from the battery and tie it to the side so it is out of the way.  It is now safe to remove the cover from the positive terminal and disconnect it from the battery.  I decided to unbolt the red box from the positive connector so that I could get it completely out of the way when removing and replacing the battery.  I think the nut is 13mm but I was able to use a 1/2" socket.

 

Removing the battery requires that you turn it almost on it's end to get it through the space where the air ducts were.  It's a tight squeeze and you need to be sure the cables and connectors are completely out of the way.

 

Putting in the new battery is the reverse of the above.  Install the positive side connection first and then cover it to prevent any accidental tool contact.  Be sure to reconnect the vent tube at the back of the battery.  Ford will probably void your warranty on the main battery and charging components if they find they have been damaged by acid fumes from an incorrectly installed 12V battery.

 

Having done this once, I could probably replace an Energi 12V battery in about 30 minutes.  You should probably allow at least an hour for your first time.

 

I didn't seem to lose much from having the battery disconnected.  The radio selects and garage door opener settings were not changed.  The climate and instrument panel settings went back to the original and I had to reset the open hatch height so it doesn't hit my garage door.

 

Hi all,

 

New member on the forums.

 

Thanks for the detailed post.  I replaced my 12v battery over the weekend in my 2014 cmax.  I hadn't read this post before doing the job, and therefor didn't pay attention to the "vent tube" as I was removing the old battery.  It wasn't until I went to drop the new one in that I noticed the tube at the back of the battery box.  I searched a bit on the net but didn't find a good answer.  The vent tube looks like a vacuum line with a 90 degree connector at the end.  It comes through the bottom of the tray, and honestly I have no clue where its supposed to connect, I didn't see any obvious place for it to go.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks

 

Daryl



#36 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 11:12 AM

While I haven't had to replace the Cmax battery as of yet, my 2013 lasted until 2017 no problem and now I got a new 2017, I would expect that there is a nipple on the back side of the battery where that vent tube was connected.  Check the old battery, should be a nipple on it on that side probably near the top facing downwards would be my guess.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 05 February 2018 - 11:13 AM.

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#37 OFFLINE   Levi Smith

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 12:09 PM

Hi all,

 

New member on the forums.

 

Thanks for the detailed post.  I replaced my 12v battery over the weekend in my 2014 cmax.  I hadn't read this post before doing the job, and therefor didn't pay attention to the "vent tube" as I was removing the old battery.  It wasn't until I went to drop the new one in that I noticed the tube at the back of the battery box.  I searched a bit on the net but didn't find a good answer.  The vent tube looks like a vacuum line with a 90 degree connector at the end.  It comes through the bottom of the tray, and honestly I have no clue where its supposed to connect, I didn't see any obvious place for it to go.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks

 

Daryl

It could be that your new battery doesn't have a place for a vent tube.  Which might be fine, or might just vent to atmosphere and end up corroding things a bit as time goes on...  



#38 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 01:04 PM

Vent hole is towards the top of the battery facing the front of the car. Look for a little round cap towards the center side right near the top of the battery to pry out. If you happen to have the old battery you can find it there.

Jesse

Edited by jzchen, 06 February 2018 - 01:06 PM.


#39 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 01:07 PM

Please see picture 4 on my post for the vent connected to the old battery.

#40 OFFLINE   ShoulderThingThatGoesUP

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 05:41 AM

I woke up to a dead car on Friday after having not plugged in the C-Max overnight. Maybe plugging it in was keeping a nearly-dead 12v going. I was having a difficult workday so doing it myself wasn't going to happen. Fortunately my neighborhood is mixed-use and the mechanic around the corner walked over, jumped it, and replaced the battery. The only setting I lost, oddly, was displaying fuel economy in MPGe instead of MPG - it was suddenly MPG when I picked it up at the shop. Apparently, not counting electricity use, I've gotten 232 MPG since August, but 89 MPGe.

 

ETA: Also, the radio source was set to AM, but my FM settings were still there.


Edited by ShoulderThingThatGoesUP, 12 March 2018 - 05:53 AM.









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