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How to replace 12v battery in energi???


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31 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Jamie Moore

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Posted 06 March 2016 - 02:15 PM

About to replace my 12v battery in my 2013 cmax energi... Has anyone on here done that?? Looking like I'll need to remove the ducting from the cooling fans to get it out??? Has anyone diy'd this???







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#2 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 06 March 2016 - 03:52 PM

here is how does not look too hard

 

http://www.carcareki...replace_battery

 ignore the first part it is something they use for the first part.



#3 OFFLINE   RubyMax

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Posted 07 March 2016 - 04:30 AM

here is how does not look too hard

 

http://www.carcareki...replace_battery

 ignore the first part it is something they use for the first part.

I like the tip of using a battery tender before you remove the terminals from the battery.  Keeps all your settings and other battery backed up stuff.


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#4 ONLINE   rbort

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Posted 07 March 2016 - 08:20 AM

Yeah that's not a bad idea, and it could just be any sort of 12v power source, even a wall adapter that can supply at least 2 amps probably would be enough.  Though interesting part, when I disconnected the 12v cable to reboot the car, I never lost the radio stations.  Only the driving coach and a couple of minor things, I forget what now I posted it before I'd have to look back at my posts.

 

About the 4 years, I think I'll go alot more than that with my Cmax car.  What are they talking about dimming headlights?  They are trying to pull some wool over your eyes with scare tactics?  When the car is on doesn't matter the headlights will be the same brightness.  Only time they would dim is if the car is off and the battery is dying slowly, an older battery means they will start dimming sooner, but in this car, you can't even leave the headlights on when you power off they go off automatically, unless you're using the delay for garage lighting to get in the house.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 07 March 2016 - 08:20 AM.


#5 OFFLINE   jjanner

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Posted 08 September 2016 - 06:32 AM

Lead acid car batteries only last about three years here in south Florida (semi-tropical weather). My 2013 C-Max Energi's 12v battery started texting me about "12v battery is low" this week; trying a desulferization or two and, I am just at three years, so looking to replace.

 

However the owner's manual, and the database at several battery Web sites says size is 96R. Interstate's Web site says 67R. And, most importantly, the battery itself is marked 67R. I'm wondering if there was a change in mid-model year. I learned about the size difference when I took it to a national franchise auto shop and they could not fit a 96R into the space for the battery on my vehicle. Yes, size does matter here. They (and their supplier Interstate) don't carry anything in the 67R size. So looks like having to go with Motorcraft unless anyone has seen another battery manufacturer that does 67R.



#6 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 08 September 2016 - 07:26 AM

Lead acid car batteries only last about three years here in south Florida (semi-tropical weather). My 2013 C-Max Energi's 12v battery started texting me about "12v battery is low" this week; trying a desulferization or two and, I am just at three years, so looking to replace.

 

However the owner's manual, and the database at several battery Web sites says size is 96R. Interstate's Web site says 67R. And, most importantly, the battery itself is marked 67R. I'm wondering if there was a change in mid-model year. I learned about the size difference when I took it to a national franchise auto shop and they could not fit a 96R into the space for the battery on my vehicle. Yes, size does matter here. They (and their supplier Interstate) don't carry anything in the 67R size. So looks like having to go with Motorcraft unless anyone has seen another battery manufacturer that does 67R.

 

Just had my 12V battery replaced in August this year with another OEM  BXT-67R 390CCA battery from the Dealers service department. This is the second time I have had the battery replaced. They have only lasted about 18 months each so far. At least the new one carries a three year unlimited mile warrantee with 5 additional years prorated. If my bad luck continues at least it will be a free replacement next time around.

 

As a side note I also had a bad battery in my Ford Ranger this august as well. At least that one lasted 7 years. I did attempt to charge the battery and it did go to 12.6V but after sitting overnight it was back down to 8V.

 

In both cases my portable jumpstart battery pack failed to provide enough power to start the vehicles. It could not even raise the voltage to 9 volts even after being left connected for awhile. The battery pack was at full charge when I tried to do the jump starts. 

 

Tom



#7 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 09 September 2016 - 03:29 AM

Lead acid car batteries only last about three years here in south Florida (semi-tropical weather). My 2013 C-Max Energi's 12v battery started texting me about "12v battery is low" this week; trying a desulferization or two and, I am just at three years, so looking to replace.

 

However the owner's manual, and the database at several battery Web sites says size is 96R. Interstate's Web site says 67R. And, most importantly, the battery itself is marked 67R. I'm wondering if there was a change in mid-model year. I learned about the size difference when I took it to a national franchise auto shop and they could not fit a 96R into the space for the battery on my vehicle. Yes, size does matter here. They (and their supplier Interstate) don't carry anything in the 67R size. So looks like having to go with Motorcraft unless anyone has seen another battery manufacturer that does 67R.

 

I just looked it up at autozone.com and oreillyauto.com, they list the proper 67R battery.  Fordparts.com lists at $119.95, my price $107.96.  Autozone is cheaper at $102.99, but only carries a 2 year warranty.  O'Reilly's is more expensive, for the same 3 year warranty.  I'm assuming you could price match at O'Reilly's if you want to....


Edited by jzchen, 09 September 2016 - 03:32 AM.


#8 OFFLINE   RubyMax

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Posted 09 September 2016 - 04:56 AM

http://owner.ford.co...and-offers.html

 

Shows two prices.

MOTORCRAFT® TESTED TOUGH® PLUS BATTERIES $99.95 MSRP*

MOTORCRAFT® TESTED TOUGH® MAX BATTERIES STARTING AT $119.95 MSRP*


Edited by RubyMax, 09 September 2016 - 04:57 AM.


#9 OFFLINE   komondor

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Posted 09 September 2016 - 05:52 AM

Funny I just found this battery at about 250 buck but look at the weight

PC1200MJT Specs:
  • 1200 cranking amps for 5 seconds
  • 1090 cranking amps for 10 seconds
  • 900 cranking amps for 20 seconds
  • Short circuit current over 2600A
  • 44 amp hours
  • 78 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
  • SAE Brass Automotive Terminals
  • Metal jacket
  • Length 7.87"
  • Width 6.66"
  • Height 6.80"
  • Weighs 38 lbs

This is the duralast

 

 

Part Number: 67R-DL Weight: 26.82lbs Warranty: 2 years Notes: *** 400 Cold Cranking Amps (500 Cranking Amps) ***. 65 reserve minutes. Warranty consists of 2 years free replacement. Battery is vented to outside of vehicle. *Caution: Do not use a memory saver on this vehicle*.

Interstate

 

Product ID: MTP-67R Cranking Amps: 500 Cold Cranking Amps: 400 Voltage: 12 Termination: Common Code A Weight (lbs): 24.5 Length (in): 9.10 Height (in): 6.80 ReserveCapacity-25: 65.00

 

When it comes to car batteries I think looking at the weight could tell you about quality, of course in the CMAX it is all about reducing weight?

 

Of course the heavier one is 100 bucks more too !



#10 OFFLINE   cwstnsko

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Posted 09 September 2016 - 08:35 AM

I've looked at the Odyssey battery as well.  If I recall correctly, it is not a 67R battery, but it lists the 67R as one of the form factors it can be used to replace.  I also recall some disclaimers that you may need to modify the battery hold down too accommodate the fact that it is not exactly the same size.

 

Comapitble replacement for BCI Group Sizes 21R, 22F, 22HF, 22NF, 22R, 26R, 40R, 41, 42, 47, 58R, 67R,
85, 90, 91, 92, 96R, 97R, 98R, 99R, 121R and 124R. MODIFICATION OF HOLD-DOWN OR CABLES MAY BE REQUIRED TO FIT YOUR VEHICLE



#11 OFFLINE   jjanner

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Posted 10 September 2016 - 02:39 PM

So I bought the 67R at the Ford dealer, $119.95 and changed it myself. Be warned: The online video about the procedure, cited elsewhere in this thread, is misleading as it does not describe the need (or the method) to remove two ducts in order to gain access to the 12v battery. However it is easy once you study the ducts. For each duct you are removing just the section that is in the vicinity above the battery. Remove the top one first. It has two conventional threaded screws to the left of the battery, one each at the top and bottom of the duct. Then remove, at the end of the duct that mates with the traction battery case, the two plastic twist thing-a-jig fasteners (I'm sure they have a proper name somewhere). Next remove the bottom duct that is immediately above the battery (you removed the top one to allow you to remove this second one). Simply remove the two threaded screws that are slightly to the right of the battery. The other end of this duct also mates with the traction battery case, but with no fasteners. You now have the necessary access to the 12v battery.



#12 OFFLINE   jjanner

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Posted 10 September 2016 - 02:42 PM

Fun fact about the 67R battery form factor: It is shorter than any of the other major group sizes, so you cannot easily substitute a different group size. Unless maybe a motorcycle battery, but then your problems would only be starting, so to speak.



#13 OFFLINE   dontfret

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Posted 12 September 2016 - 02:59 PM

I just had mine changed at the dealership (lasted 3 years and 3 months!) for $130 including labor.



#14 ONLINE   rbort

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Posted 12 September 2016 - 04:56 PM

I'm at 3 years 2 weeks now, I hope mine will go alot longer than a couple more months!

 

-=>Raja.



#15 OFFLINE   Bryan Davis

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Posted 14 September 2016 - 05:03 AM

I'm on my original 12v battery in my 2013. I'm going to have it tested at some point this week.



#16 OFFLINE   JnTX

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Posted 17 September 2016 - 06:59 PM

I just replaced my 12V battery at 37 months old.  Ford didn't waste any money on a battery that lasted a lot longer than the warranty.  This isn't a real easy service job and you shouldn't attempt it unless you are comfortable working around high current batteries and can lift and maneuver a 30 pound battery through a tight space.  Two tools you will need are a Torx T-25 driver and an 8mm socket wrench.  It's best to have a 1/4" ratchet with an extension for the 8mm socket.  Some places need a long reach and others don't have head room for a long tool.  Some other useful tools are a Torx T-30 driver, 10mm, and 13mm sockets. 

 

Be aware that even "dead" batteries are dangerous.  They can cause serious burns and can explode and blind you with a spray of sulfuric acid.  Always wear eye protection when working around batteries.

 

To replace the battery be sure the car is off and not plugged into AC power.  Remove everything from the rear storage tray including the rubber mat.  Also remove the small panel that holds the fuel funnel.  You will see four T-25 screws and a 10mm nut that secure the tray.  If you don't have a 10mm socket, you should be able to use pliers on the nut since it has some space around it.  Remove the screws and nut and lift out the tray.  Next lift up the edge of the carpet above the tray.  There are some velcro strips that hold down the carpet.  You will see four screws that secure the panel above the tray.  These screws can be removed with a Torx T-30 driver or a large flat blade screwdriver.  After removing the four screws, you can lift off the panel.

 

Now you should have a good view of the battery and the two air ducts above it.  At this point, I would recommend that you cut out a square of cardboard and tape it over the positive battery connections that are closest to the rear bumper.  Dropping a tool and shorting the battery would not be a pleasant experience.  You will see four 8mm head screws that secure the two air ducts.  There are also three plastic fasteners.  Two are clearly visible and the third is hidden under the top duct.  Remove the four screws and pull out the center parts of the plastic fasteners.  The center of each fastener is like a big thumb tack and you will see a small notch to get a pry tool under the head.  Once the centers are pulled out of the three fasteners, you should be able to easily remove the upper and then lower air ducts.

 

Reach around the back of the battery and pull the vent tube towards the front of the car and out of the battery.  Tuck it under something or tie it out of the way.  Directly in front of the battery is an 8mm bolt that secures the battery clamp.  Use a socket with an extension or a nut driver to remove the bolt and hold down clamp.  Next loosen the 8mm clamp nut on the negative battery terminal.  That is the terminal towards the front of the car.  Remove the connector from the battery and tie it to the side so it is out of the way.  It is now safe to remove the cover from the positive terminal and disconnect it from the battery.  I decided to unbolt the red box from the positive connector so that I could get it completely out of the way when removing and replacing the battery.  I think the nut is 13mm but I was able to use a 1/2" socket.

 

Removing the battery requires that you turn it almost on it's end to get it through the space where the air ducts were.  It's a tight squeeze and you need to be sure the cables and connectors are completely out of the way.

 

Putting in the new battery is the reverse of the above.  Install the positive side connection first and then cover it to prevent any accidental tool contact.  Be sure to reconnect the vent tube at the back of the battery.  Ford will probably void your warranty on the main battery and charging components if they find they have been damaged by acid fumes from an incorrectly installed 12V battery.

 

Having done this once, I could probably replace an Energi 12V battery in about 30 minutes.  You should probably allow at least an hour for your first time.

 

I didn't seem to lose much from having the battery disconnected.  The radio selects and garage door opener settings were not changed.  The climate and instrument panel settings went back to the original and I had to reset the open hatch height so it doesn't hit my garage door.


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#17 OFFLINE   wrx2themaxx

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Posted 29 November 2016 - 01:20 PM

Just had to replace my 12V on 2014 C-Max Energi.  I started getting low battery warning text messages on 13 Nov finally on telling me to plug the car in, it's always plugged in so i ignored it, it finally died no power to turn on, 26 Nov, Jumped it, charged it and dead after the first start.  Using the Very helpful battery replacement procedure for JnTX I removed the battery, removed the battery caps, each cell was low so I topped them off, I have the battery on an activation charge to see if it can be revived.  I will test it with my Battery Load Tester to see if it's salvageable, if not I'm off to spend $119 plus tax at the dealer  Total time I had the battery 28 mo and 41K miles and out of warranty. Previously I drove it everyday, I stopped driving it every day on 9 July but it has been plugged in everyday since then.  The Design and location of the battery is very inconvenient. For a Battery that doesn't even last 3 yrs.   Not being a standard size adds a hefty cost to replacing it. I loved the C-Max at the time We bought it... However today there are better options, better electric range, and Ford who hasn't updated the C-Max at all, I will probably get a different Plug-in Hybrid manufacturer July 2017 when the lease is up.  At this point the two saving grace's are the Carpool sticker for LA Traffic, and it's still fun to drive...

 

Thank You JnTX for the DIY info.



#18 OFFLINE   Perry Knopp

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 02:28 PM

 Thanks all for this information. Mine is appx 46 months old now and 41,000 miles. I got the low charge warning and wasn't sure what was up. I soon figured it out. I got the panels removed and I wasn't sure on the vents. Explained here. I was going to use a battery source but reading this it looks like I won't have to bother.



#19 OFFLINE   Perry Knopp

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 10:14 AM

FWIW......I went the Ford Owners site and they had two battery specials. 84 month for $99.95. 100 Month starting at $119.95 which means absolutely nothing. Everything starts somewhere. Anyway I printed out the 84 month info.

 

 I get there, tell them I want a battery for my 2013 C-Max Energi. He looks it up and says "you want the regular battery, not the one in the back right" I chuckle and said that they both are in the back but yes the regular battery. He said they had one $129.99. I pulled out my coupon thing and asked if it did any good. He looked at, paused a minute and said he could do that. I said great and went to get the old battery.

 

 I came back in and he brought me the 100 month battery. 

 

 https://owner.ford.c...and-offers.html



#20 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 05:08 AM

I just replaced my 12V battery at 37 months old.  Ford didn't waste any money on a battery that lasted a lot longer than the warranty.  This isn't a real easy service job and you shouldn't attempt it unless you are comfortable working around high current batteries and can lift and maneuver a 30 pound battery through a tight space.  Two tools you will need are a Torx T-25 driver and an 8mm socket wrench.  It's best to have a 1/4" ratchet with an extension for the 8mm socket.  Some places need a long reach and others don't have head room for a long tool.  Some other useful tools are a Torx T-30 driver, 10mm, and 13mm sockets. 

 

Be aware that even "dead" batteries are dangerous.  They can cause serious burns and can explode and blind you with a spray of sulfuric acid.  Always wear eye protection when working around batteries.

 

To replace the battery be sure the car is off and not plugged into AC power.  Remove everything from the rear storage tray including the rubber mat.  Also remove the small panel that holds the fuel funnel.  You will see four T-25 screws and a 10mm nut that secure the tray.  If you don't have a 10mm socket, you should be able to use pliers on the nut since it has some space around it.  Remove the screws and nut and lift out the tray.  Next lift up the edge of the carpet above the tray.  There are some velcro strips that hold down the carpet.  You will see four screws that secure the panel above the tray.  These screws can be removed with a Torx T-30 driver or a large flat blade screwdriver.  After removing the four screws, you can lift off the panel.

 

Now you should have a good view of the battery and the two air ducts above it.  At this point, I would recommend that you cut out a square of cardboard and tape it over the positive battery connections that are closest to the rear bumper.  Dropping a tool and shorting the battery would not be a pleasant experience.  You will see four 8mm head screws that secure the two air ducts.  There are also three plastic fasteners.  Two are clearly visible and the third is hidden under the top duct.  Remove the four screws and pull out the center parts of the plastic fasteners.  The center of each fastener is like a big thumb tack and you will see a small notch to get a pry tool under the head.  Once the centers are pulled out of the three fasteners, you should be able to easily remove the upper and then lower air ducts.

 

Reach around the back of the battery and pull the vent tube towards the front of the car and out of the battery.  Tuck it under something or tie it out of the way.  Directly in front of the battery is an 8mm bolt that secures the battery clamp.  Use a socket with an extension or a nut driver to remove the bolt and hold down clamp.  Next loosen the 8mm clamp nut on the negative battery terminal.  That is the terminal towards the front of the car.  Remove the connector from the battery and tie it to the side so it is out of the way.  It is now safe to remove the cover from the positive terminal and disconnect it from the battery.  I decided to unbolt the red box from the positive connector so that I could get it completely out of the way when removing and replacing the battery.  I think the nut is 13mm but I was able to use a 1/2" socket.

 

Removing the battery requires that you turn it almost on it's end to get it through the space where the air ducts were.  It's a tight squeeze and you need to be sure the cables and connectors are completely out of the way.

 

Putting in the new battery is the reverse of the above.  Install the positive side connection first and then cover it to prevent any accidental tool contact.  Be sure to reconnect the vent tube at the back of the battery.  Ford will probably void your warranty on the main battery and charging components if they find they have been damaged by acid fumes from an incorrectly installed 12V battery.

 

Having done this once, I could probably replace an Energi 12V battery in about 30 minutes.  You should probably allow at least an hour for your first time.

 

I didn't seem to lose much from having the battery disconnected.  The radio selects and garage door opener settings were not changed.  The climate and instrument panel settings went back to the original and I had to reset the open hatch height so it doesn't hit my garage door.

 

Would it be hard for a novice to retrieve something on the "far side", I think to the right, of the battery?  I dropped a plastic spatula once while trying to reset My Ford Mobile back when it was broken.  It is still there until this day....  Thanks for sharing a detailed description!!!










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