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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Clicking in Charger and Charge Fault - Wrench warning light On

bad charger charging fault charger replacement

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104 replies to this topic

#101 OFFLINE   jzchen

jzchen

    Energi Member

  • C-MAX Energi Platinum Member
  • 541 posts
  • Region:U.S. Pacific Coast
  • LocationArcadia, CA
  • My C-MAX:None
  • Current Vehicle:2018 Honda Clarity PHEV

Posted 31 October 2017 - 04:52 AM

Did you ever ground one wire like on the diagrams I found?  I agree with the person to open the charger and have a look at what those two extra wires are connected to.  I am sorry if you felt like this was a waste of time, but if you cooled the plug and it worked, I would suspect the problem lies within.  As noted, someone replaced his.

 

Note to self, do not connect wires on a whim.  Get the proper placing/diagram before trying.....

 

Since the connector to the car is universal, I would still suspect the wiring of each is quite similar in design, meaning an analysis of a wiring diagram could help one find how to connect everything....









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#102 OFFLINE   altabrig

altabrig

    Energi Member

  • C-MAX Energi Member
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  • 519 posts
  • Region:U.S. Pacific Coast
  • LocationSouthern California
  • Current Vehicle:2013 Ford Cmax energi Oxford White 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6R

Posted 31 October 2017 - 10:44 AM

I tried grounding the thermistor and wires too, but no go.

 

I did mention after you posted the diagrams that I couldn't read the schematics to figure out the blue and brown.  

 

Not sure which one would ground and where the other would connect if  that is what the wiring diagrams show.

 

Thanks.



#103 OFFLINE   jzchen

jzchen

    Energi Member

  • C-MAX Energi Platinum Member
  • 541 posts
  • Region:U.S. Pacific Coast
  • LocationArcadia, CA
  • My C-MAX:None
  • Current Vehicle:2018 Honda Clarity PHEV

Posted 01 November 2017 - 01:22 AM

If I learned a lesson from the smart car forum I am on, the more information that I get, the better I am able to find a solution to an issue.  (In that case a swap from an eyeglass holder in the headliner to a grab handle caused some issues, because the headliner has different sized holes.  I just verified there is only one headliner part, and gave the part number for the grab handle, and it didn't fit.  It didn't go well with users there.)

 

In these cases where wiring diagrams are different, I would try to get as many as possible and try to reconcile them, or try to find the actual diagram for the item in question, or try to open the unit without breaking anything.  Being that I'm not using my EE knowledge much, this is quite a challenge for me.  It would be great to verify nothing is damaged inside the unit at this point.  (Does it seem difficult to open?)  I would open it.  It may be that something there might be damaged.

 

If you for example tell us the difference between thermistor connection and leaving it "open"/unconnected, we may be able to help determine something.  But if you just note that with the thermistor connected, this lit up, and then faulted, I can't tell squat.  What happens when the wires are just left dangling?  Does it act differently somehow?  If it does, the "mechanism" inside may not be damaged, because it is detecting the difference, for example.  But we are just given what seems to be partial information.  That and the fact that I haven't had experience with the level one failing because we use the level 2 since almost the beginning, I have no way of directing you....

 

Let's start at that.  If the thermistor is connected, vs just leaving the wires dangling, how does it act, differently?  (These are possibly two of the safer tests for the internal circuitry that I can think of.)



#104 OFFLINE   jzchen

jzchen

    Energi Member

  • C-MAX Energi Platinum Member
  • 541 posts
  • Region:U.S. Pacific Coast
  • LocationArcadia, CA
  • My C-MAX:None
  • Current Vehicle:2018 Honda Clarity PHEV

Posted 01 November 2017 - 02:34 AM

Hi folks.   

 

Ford told me to pound sand in response to my request to replace my second level one EVSE convenience cord.  

 

Since I found a used Level 2 Ebusbar NEMA 10-30 on ebay that has worked well for over a month, I decided to try to replace the plug on the level one as numerous posters have suggested. 

 

Polishing the plug prongs did nothing, and placing an icepack on the plug was a tedious solution that only delayed the inevitable charge fault an hour or two, so I wanted to get the cord back to working order by swapping the plug. 

 

There has been some discussion as to whether or not a temp sensor exists within the molded rubber 3 prong plug.  Upon slicing the plug in half and dissecting the molded rubber between the three prong I found that there are 2 extra wires 22 AWG in blue and brown in addition to the 16 AWG Black, White and Green.  

 

I would like to upload the photos of the wiring and the dissected ends of the 22 AWG brown and blue wire ends with soldered connections which look to be to two halves of a soldered on wishbone temp sensor, but I cannot upload photos through the gallery anymore despite having current flash and loading smaller MB photos.  I apologize.  I have pictures to illustrate this and a couple other threads, but only get a message that a "server error occurred during upload." So instead of adding photos where appropriate I'll add em below.  Maybe someone can figure out if it is a sensor or just soldered together or some other configuration.

 

I have failed to fix the issue after three different wiring attempts with the blue and brown 22 AWG wires (in addition to the 16 AWG Black- Hot, White- Neutral and Green -Earth/Ground.)

 

Each of my wiring attempts have caused the EVSE to fault instantly upon plugging into outlet without being plugged into vehicle charge port.

 

I have tried  1)capping the ends of the blue and brown 22AWG, 2) wiring them together and 3) wiring the brown to the hot prong and the blue to the neutral.  All attempts to get the EVSE going have failed.   Perhaps there is a mechanical defect in the new Leviton Heavy Duty Male plug causing a fault, but it seems unlikely.

 

I was unable to excavate the delicate wiring and possible tiny soldered sensor in one piece out of the solid molded rubber and unfortunately can't upload the pics to gallery so someone with better knowledge could more easily troubleshoot.   I don't know where the soldered ends were connected by very delicate wire which may have been a wishbone shaped ambient temp sensor connected to both blue and brown wire.   The blue and brown may need an ambient temp sensor soldered on between the two, or they need that in addition to being soldered to hot and neutral.

 

The blue and brown wires could also have been soldered separately to the hot and neutral prongs or both the sensor and prongs.  I dug out two soldered wire ends (blue and brown) and two fine solder wire leads to what could be two halves (2mm each) of the temp sensor. The picture below only shows one of the soldered leads (brown), the blue soldered end got lost, but was the same thing - a wire tip with solder.

 

I thought I recalled that someone had actually changed a plug on the forum, but do not recall mention of the brown or blue leads.

 

JZ suggested that soldering them together may work, but I am not sure how that would be different than wiring them.   Obviously without the sensor their is no failsafe.   That is ok if I can get the thing to charge.  It will mainly be used outdoors as a backup on an extension when away from the home, but also if my level 2 EVSE starts acting up.

 

Should I should try to purchase a sensor from a local electronics store and solder it on or what is the next step?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.     Thanks.

 

Did you connect those two wires, step 3 in bold, because of this?

 

http://www.instructa...AMP-CHARGER-TO/

 

Could be as easy as switching brown to neutral and blue to hot?  I messaged Dave over there to see if he could give some insight on the two extra wires.  The Leaf has two extra, yellow, wires.  Hopefully he will respond, soon......



#105 OFFLINE   jzchen

jzchen

    Energi Member

  • C-MAX Energi Platinum Member
  • 541 posts
  • Region:U.S. Pacific Coast
  • LocationArcadia, CA
  • My C-MAX:None
  • Current Vehicle:2018 Honda Clarity PHEV

Posted 16 November 2017 - 02:34 PM

Interesting where the 10k ohm came from:

 

http://www.mynissanl...pic.php?t=15096

 

Should try a 10k ohm resistor, not thermistor....











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