I'd personally replace your rotors. I just did a full brake job a few weeks ago. Front and rear rotors, pads, caliper springs. Even though my car only has 20K miles on it, the rotors looked similar to yours. I must say, the braking on this car is significantly better now. I went with Raybestos Enhanced Hybrid Technology pads front and rear. I went with Raybestos Professional Grade rotors front and rear. Total cost was $197 including shipping from RockAuto.
The logic behind going with aftermarket pads was because the stock pads are rated FG vs. the after market pads which are rated GG. For those who are unaware, the first letter indicates the cold coefficient of friction and the second letter indicates the hot coefficient of friction and the higher the letter, the higher the coefficient is. Seeing how our cars' brakes spend nearly 100% of their life in the cold temperature range it doesn't make much sense to demand better performance in hot conditions. By going with the GG pads it gives me better cold performance, while retaining the same level of performance when they get hot.
Overall, my car has much more confident braking. This may be largely to the new rotors which no longer have rust contaminated braking surfaces. They performed very well this morning when I was nearly involved in a seven car pile-up. Four cars ahead of me and three cars behind me crashed. If I had been with my old brakes, I would have rear-ended the car ahead of me.
Now that I have nice clear rotors, I am going to make it a point to do one stop from 30-40 MPH per day with the transmission in neutral. With the car in neutral, the hydraulic brakes do all the work and should help to keep the rotors from rusting over. We will see how the rotors look in a couple of years.
BTW, for anyone looking into doing a DIY brake job on these cars, I will caution you that all four of my rotors were rusted to the hubs. I just did the old 3/8" bolt and two nuts through the caliper bracket mounting hole trick. Other than the stuck rotors, installation of everything else was actually easier than on any other car I've worked on. Total time was approximately half an hour per corner (I did use an air ratchet to drive the bold to dislodge the rotors which sped up the process). A breaker-bar, rear caliper tool, and a torque wrench capable of 130 ft./lbs were required to complete this task. Other than those semi-special tools, basic hand tools would be enough to accomplish this task. If anyone is interested, I can write up a DIY guide.