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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Do I need to replace my brake pads or rotors or both?


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23 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   mitrals

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Posted 08 October 2015 - 09:46 AM

This is how my rotors look: http://fordcmaxhybri...e-wear-pattern/

 

I have 75K miles on the car and the pads seem to have about 60% left in the front and 40% at the back. This is just by visual inspection. There are minor noises while braking. No performance loss that I can feel. Should I change my pads or rotors or both? Do you guys think it can be stuck caliper. I highly doubt it since all 4 rotors have rust. Should I take it for a spirited drive :)

 

I am at 85% EV driving with brake scores of 98%. Thought I would throw it in there

 

EDIT: The mechanic I spoke to recommended that I should replace rear rotors and not turn them. They have not seen the car.


Edited by mitrals, 08 October 2015 - 09:50 AM.








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#2 OFFLINE   edweird

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Posted 08 October 2015 - 11:39 AM

FYI If you aren't registered on the CMax forum, you can't view the pictures.



#3 OFFLINE   mitrals

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Posted 08 October 2015 - 01:36 PM

front
rear


#4 OFFLINE   mitrals

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Posted 08 October 2015 - 01:37 PM

First picture is front and second is rear.



#5 ONLINE   rbort

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Posted 08 October 2015 - 03:54 PM

Just means you're not using the brakes much for it to sand it down smooth, its rusting due to that.  But rotors rust all the time, so unless they are warped I wouldn't worry about replacing them.  If they are warped you will feel pulsating during braking with the pads.

 

If it was me I'd just replace the pads when they wear down even more than 60/40.  Maybe you'll even make 100K miles before you need to.

 

-=>Raja.



#6 OFFLINE   ivebeenrued

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Posted 21 July 2016 - 01:25 PM

I'd personally replace your rotors. I just did a full brake job a few weeks ago. Front and rear rotors, pads, caliper springs. Even though my car only has 20K miles on it, the rotors looked similar to yours. I must say, the braking on this car is significantly better now. I went with Raybestos Enhanced Hybrid Technology pads front and rear. I went with Raybestos Professional Grade rotors front and rear. Total cost was $197 including shipping from RockAuto.

 

The logic behind going with aftermarket pads was because the stock pads are rated FG vs. the after market pads which are rated GG. For those who are unaware, the first letter indicates the cold coefficient of friction and the second letter indicates the hot coefficient of friction and the higher the letter, the higher the coefficient is. Seeing how our cars' brakes spend nearly 100% of their life in the cold temperature range it doesn't make much sense to demand better performance in hot conditions. By going with the GG pads it gives me better cold performance, while retaining the same level of performance when they get hot.

 

Overall, my car has much more confident braking. This may be largely to the new rotors which no longer have rust contaminated braking surfaces. They performed very well this morning when I was nearly involved in a seven car pile-up. Four cars ahead of me and three cars behind me crashed. If I had been with my old brakes, I would have rear-ended the car ahead of me.

 

Now that I have nice clear rotors, I am going to make it a point to do one stop from 30-40 MPH per day with the transmission in neutral. With the car in neutral, the hydraulic brakes do all the work and should help to keep the rotors from rusting over. We will see how the rotors look in a couple of years.

 

BTW, for anyone looking into doing a DIY brake job on these cars, I will caution you that all four of my rotors were rusted to the hubs. I just did the old 3/8" bolt and two nuts through the caliper bracket mounting hole trick. Other than the stuck rotors, installation of everything else was actually easier than on any other car I've worked on. Total time was approximately half an hour per corner (I did use an air ratchet to drive the bold to dislodge the rotors which sped up the process). A breaker-bar, rear caliper tool, and a torque wrench capable of 130 ft./lbs were required to complete this task. Other than those semi-special tools, basic hand tools would be enough to accomplish this task. If anyone is interested, I can write up a DIY guide.


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#7 ONLINE   rbort

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Posted 21 July 2016 - 04:26 PM

If you have to stop that fast you're either following way too close or you're going too fast or both. In 3 years that I've had the car I only had to slam on the brakes once when a black bear ran out of the woods and crossed the road in front of me. Other than that this car makes you very conscious about braking efficiency and I have a 99% lifetime brake score in 50k miles. I think my brakes will last 100k miles, I'll have a closer look at them when I rotate the tIres soon.

You certainly lucked out when you stopped that quick that the 3 cars behind you who all hit each other didn't hit you, close one I'm glad you didn't get hit as the HVB is in the rear repairs could be expensive or totaled..

-=>Raja.

Edited by rbort, 21 July 2016 - 04:28 PM.


#8 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 21 July 2016 - 09:15 PM

I'd say neither....



#9 OFFLINE   astrand1

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Posted 22 July 2016 - 03:08 AM

Well when I had my Ford Escape hybrid I bought it new and finally did the brakes at 148k! and they still had some pad left but were close enough that it needed to be done. So making it to 100k should be easy. 👍

#10 OFFLINE   Levi Smith

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Posted 22 July 2016 - 03:23 AM

IMHO, if you want that rust gone, you'll probably want to replace the rotors and likely pads as well.  Replacing only the pads won't fix it.

 

But I personally wouldn't worry much about it.  Just looks like you're not using them enough.  You might want to try to actually use the friction brakes occasionally to keep them a bit more clean.



#11 OFFLINE   ivebeenrued

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Posted 22 July 2016 - 05:12 AM

If you have to stop that fast you're either following way too close or you're going too fast or both. In 3 years that I've had the car I only had to slam on the brakes once when a black bear ran out of the woods and crossed the road in front of me. Other than that this car makes you very conscious about braking efficiency and I have a 99% lifetime brake score in 50k miles. I think my brakes will last 100k miles, I'll have a closer look at them when I rotate the tIres soon.

You certainly lucked out when you stopped that quick that the 3 cars behind you who all hit each other didn't hit you, close one I'm glad you didn't get hit as the HVB is in the rear repairs could be expensive or totaled..

-=>Raja.

 

I had about ~200 feet of lead distance in front of me while merging into a 65 zone, so I had plenty of stopping distance. The issue is that when you suddenly see a pile-up in front of you and only have ~200 feet to come to a complete stop from ~60 MPH and you have a giant vehicle behind you that is only leaving 1.5 car lengths of following distance (the norm for Northern Virginia/DC), you have to not only concentrate on not hitting the guy a head of you but you have to be anticipating the guy's ability to stop behind you. Lucky for me I was able to control my stop well enough to prevent a front and rear impact. Because of the guy behind me, I had to apply full brake force, let off to give the guy behind me a chance to go full-on braking, then get right back on brakes after the guy behind has backed off. My tires did chirp right at the end but I ended up with about 1 car lengths ahead of me. Everyone else got screwed because they were driving unsafely and driving too closely but I walked away scot-free.



#12 ONLINE   rbort

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Posted 22 July 2016 - 06:20 AM

Did your car pull to the right?  When I braked hard for that bear my car seemed to pull to the right, but I didn't worry about it too much as I haven't done that ever again.  I remember someone was asking here on the forum that their car pulled to the right during hard braking...

 

I have been down in Virginia many times and that traffic between the bridge and Fredericksburg is a pain.  I don't know how you guys deal with this day in and day out...When I drive everyone's onion is burnt and they are trying to go as fast as they can.  I leave several cars gap in front of me so I don't have to use the brakes only regen and they keep going around me racing around to fill that gap and slam on the brakes following the guy who was in front of me.  I just drift back 1 car at a time to keep my same distance.  Its not like I'm getting there any faster, I'm going the same speed as the guy in front of me, but he's on the gas brake gas brake gas brake all the time and I'm on CC or regen instead.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 22 July 2016 - 06:23 AM.


#13 OFFLINE   ivebeenrued

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Posted 22 July 2016 - 09:11 AM

Did your car pull to the right?  When I braked hard for that bear my car seemed to pull to the right, but I didn't worry about it too much as I haven't done that ever again.  I remember someone was asking here on the forum that their car pulled to the right during hard braking...

 

Negative, the car stopped nice and straight.



#14 ONLINE   rbort

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Posted 22 July 2016 - 10:04 AM

I'm rotating my tires now, for the 5th time (every 10k miles).  I just checked the brake pads, pulled out a ruler.  The fronts are 13/32 thick, the rears are 11/32 thick.  I hardly use those.  I think I have to increase my brake service estimate from 100k to 150k like astrand1...

 

I also took pictures of the rotors and the tires, see below.  I measured the tire depth, at 50711 miles I have 6/32 left and clearly enough to the next tire rotation at 60k miles.  

 

-=>Raja.

Attached Files



#15 OFFLINE   ShoulderThingThatGoesUP

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 04:23 AM

The dealership says I have "marginal brake wear" and keeps sending me cards about it. My brake scores are in the 97% range, though, so I can't imagine I'm doing too much friction braking...for now it brakes whenever I need it to and I'm inclined to let it ride until next year's inspection.

 

Edit: Homophones....


Edited by ShoulderThingThatGoesUP, 27 July 2016 - 05:11 AM.


#16 OFFLINE   Levi Smith

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 04:28 AM

The dealership says I have "marginal break wear" and keeps sending me cards about it. My brake scores are in the 97% range, though, so I can't imagine I'm doing too much friction braking...for now it breaks whenever I need it to and I'm inclined to let it ride until next year's inspection.

Haha.  I'm not hearing anything that sounds like there's a problem...  "Marginal brake wear" I'd think would cover anything for braking from "it was installed yesterday" and up to the point of it isn't yet scraping metal.

 

Sounds like it's just something the dealer can list and make people think they need to spend $500+ for new brakes.

 

 

I'm pretty sure my entire car has "marginal wear". (:



#17 ONLINE   rbort

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 05:47 AM

^^^ Just scare tactics for money making.  many people don't understand or know mechanical stuff and all you need to tell them is that their brakes have some wear and its not "safe" and voila, you've got the authorization to redo the whole system with pads, rotors, sometimes even calipers.  I've seen it, even got done to some women I know.  Calipers?  Really?

 

-=>Raja.



#18 OFFLINE   ShoulderThingThatGoesUP

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Posted 29 July 2016 - 06:13 AM

Amusingly it was in yesterday because I thought the 12v outlets not working would be a maintenance issue (instead I paid $106 for a fuse...I'll check those myself first now, I guess) and the overall check-off report they did said my brakes were great; 7/32". Same dealership.



#19 ONLINE   rbort

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Posted 29 July 2016 - 06:22 AM

Hello from Jackie's diner in Hazelton, PA!

How many miles on your car? I have 11/32 on the pads with over 51k miles. 7/32 means you either brake hard a lot or you have double my miles?

-=>Raja.

Edited by rbort, 29 July 2016 - 06:24 AM.


#20 OFFLINE   ShoulderThingThatGoesUP

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Posted 29 July 2016 - 06:34 AM

What brings you through coal country up there?

 

My car just ticked over 29,000 but I bought it two months ago. The Lifetime Summary seems to have been reset at some point - it's implausible that it only had 45 regen miles on it when I bought it - but if the 6000 EV Miles, 2500 at least of which I've put on, is correct, it...wasn't a good purchase for whoever owned it last.










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