We keep our Energi in a garage here in hot/humid Alabama so when I go somewhere the temperature shows 78 degrees. With the A/C set to anything above about 70 the damn heater comes on! I can see this massive power draw in the climate power graphic. Takes my range from 28 down to 20! A/C alone takes me to 24 which is fine. I have screwed up fingers so just cranking down the temperature with that slippery dial requires me to pull over. If the fan is highish the voice control doesn't understand me. So I have to keep the temperature at 68 which freezes me out. Or I turn climate off when I start the car and sweat for 4 minutes till the Cmax displayed temperature rises to outdoor temperature of 93 or so. Then I use voice to turn it on but usually recirc is off. If it's 80 and humid and it's set to 74 the heat comes on and stays on. Really an awful system especially for me.
What I want is 76 degrees, fan 3rd from highest, and recirc on. And of course NO HEAT when it's 95 outside! Can I pull the heater fuse?
Is this your first vehicle with auto climate? If so, then you may have to get used to the fact that the system doesn't operate anything like a manual air conditioning system that are seen in lesser vehicles.
If possible, I'd recommend using cabin preconditioning by setting Go Times. This will pre-condition your cabin to a pre-programmed set point at a schedueled time and will prevent the vehicle from having to deal with huge temperature transitions when going from your garage to the out-of-doors.
You may also want to consider using your remote start feature to turn on the vehicle a few minutes prior to your drive away, again for the same purpose. Remote start may be a better fit for you because the temperatures available from Go Time cabin pre-conditioning are something like 68, 72 and 78 degrees (don't mark my words on the uppper set point). I use 72 degrees for my Go Time set point, winter and summer.
If you do a remote start of the vehicle, then the temperature set point will be wherever you left your climate control when you last used the vehicle. THat may be a better choice for you. Be sure that you have "silent start" turned on, which I believe will prevent the engine from coming on during the remote start. I only suggest remote start for the cabin pre-conditioning function.
It does take a few minutes for the outside temperature sensor to register a more accurate ambient temperature, but the C-MAX's ambient oustide temperature sensor is a lot faster at compensating for the temp differential between your garage and the outside world than my 05 Prius. I find that the C-MAX correctly displays outside temperature within 5 minutes or less of me leaving my garage. My Prius may take as much as 15 minutes to do the same.
Auto climate control have evolved a lot over the years, however most modern auto climate systems take into account the outside air temperature when determining how much effort to put into cooling or heating the cabin of the vehicle. This is expecially important in a vehicle built for efficiency because the auto climate system is designed to provide the most cooling or heating with the least amount of resources necessary to do so. The C-MAX, like most hybrids, has an electric A/C compressor which can operate at variable speed. The auto climate system uses its knowledge of outside temperature conditions, inside conditions to determine how much output it needs from the A/C compressor to effectively acomplish its task.
If you are moving from places of a low temperature to a place of much higher temperature, it takes time for the system to register that and then apply the right operating mode. I've experienced this with my Prius for years now, and it is just the name of the game.
I don't see how the vehicle would call for heat if your garage temperature is 76 degrees and the vehicle's climate control is calling for 70. That would still indicate a call for A/C vs. heat. I think it is also important to point out that the electric heat function on this vehicle is pretty slow reacting. The electric heater actually heats the coolant that is in the heater loop and that is how heat is generated when running EV only. It takes quite a bit of time for that heater to heat up the fluid in the heater loop to generate any perceptable amount of heat. Unless you have had a dealer confirm that the energy draw you see is attributed to the electric heat function, I suspect that something else is at play when you first start out on your drive.
If you have any further clarification, I'd be glad to read it and analyize.
Edited by jeromep, 05 August 2015 - 03:49 PM.