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Guest Message by DevFuse

Get you C-MAX Energi Registered in the official Ford Authorized Registry. More here.


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Empower Screen Linear or Non-Linear?


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71 replies to this topic

#61 OFFLINE   rbort

rbort

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 06:15 PM

The deep freeze got me a low of about 135 mpge on average.  The lowest trip was in the low 120's mpge with temps in the single digits..

 

In march in the 40's my average is up to 150 mpge, which will increase range for sure.  You can actually correlate range in miles to the mpge numbers you're getting.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 13 March 2015 - 06:15 PM.








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#62 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 05:02 AM

Battery Gauge findings:

 

(The battery % gauge is in the main central window. To access, push the "Leaves" icon at the bottom. Look in "Settings," not "Power." This is the screen with "My Go Time" at the top center.)

 

Today I knew I'd have a chance to charge in the garage at work. I work some Saturdays and there's a spot where I can charge on 110V when things are quiet on the weekends. So I performed a little experiment.

 

I drove to work on EV Now in Modified Mongo Mode: Hard, 4-bar acceleration, yet smooth careful braking and a bit of L when necessary. Same route I normally take, and it's about 9 miles, lots of stop and go and short hills. Top speed mostly the same as I usually reach, just far greater acceleration than normal to reach that speed.

 

My best remaining charge ever was earlier this week--I arrived at work with 70% SOC in the HVB remaining. Higher ambient temperatures certainly have helped raise that SOC, but mainly that 70% came from excellent acceleration and braking scores.

 

Today? 55% SOC upon arrival.

 

Thus, 4-bar to 5-bar acceleration costs 15% more SOC over 9 miles than 1-bar to 2-bar acceleration, other factors being relatively equal, on a stop-and-go, hilly route.



#63 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 07:20 AM

Of course, slow and steady is alot better than jack rabbit style as you can see there.  I accelerate on average at about 1.5-1.75 bars.  In some cases where there is a slight downhill and there is time with no-one behind me I do it around 1 bar.

 

If there is someone buggin behind me, the most I'll do is 2 bars.  Sorry can't go any faster than that.  Its in most cases reasonable enough so they don't get mad.

 

-=>Raja.



#64 OFFLINE   stevedebi

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 09:00 AM

Battery Gauge findings:

 

(The battery % gauge is in the main central window. To access, push the "Leaves" icon at the bottom. Look in "Settings," not "Power." This is the screen with "My Go Time" at the top center.)

 

Today I knew I'd have a chance to charge in the garage at work. I work some Saturdays and there's a spot where I can charge on 110V when things are quiet on the weekends. So I performed a little experiment.

 

I drove to work on EV Now in Modified Mongo Mode: Hard, 4-bar acceleration, yet smooth careful braking and a bit of L when necessary. Same route I normally take, and it's about 9 miles, lots of stop and go and short hills. Top speed mostly the same as I usually reach, just far greater acceleration than normal to reach that speed.

 

My best remaining charge ever was earlier this week--I arrived at work with 70% SOC in the HVB remaining. Higher ambient temperatures certainly have helped raise that SOC, but mainly that 70% came from excellent acceleration and braking scores.

 

Today? 55% SOC upon arrival.

 

Thus, 4-bar to 5-bar acceleration costs 15% more SOC over 9 miles than 1-bar to 2-bar acceleration, other factors being relatively equal, on a stop-and-go, hilly route.

Yep, energy is energy, no matter if it is electric or gas - going easier on the accelerator pedal will use less energy, in a Plug-in, EV, or ICE only vehicle. That is why many of the techniques I learned from hybrid driving will also improve my MPG in ICE only vehicles.


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#65 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 18 March 2015 - 06:00 PM

Another curious gauge thing--

 

First, at a full stop, I turn off every accessory. No lights, no seat heaters, no radio, and so on.

Now if I observe the energy use gauge on the small left screen, it will show zero kW being used for climate control. It will show a small amount, like 1/4 kW, for "Other."

 

Now, if I start to move, the bar in "Other" goes down. It decreases, pretty consistently.

 

Why would the Energi use more housekeeping power at a standstill than when moving? Or is something else happening, and it just looks this way? Anyone know? 



#66 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 04:07 AM

Another curious gauge thing--

 

First, at a full stop, I turn off every accessory. No lights, no seat heaters, no radio, and so on.

Now if I observe the energy use gauge on the small left screen, it will show zero kW being used for climate control. It will show a small amount, like 1/4 kW, for "Other."

 

Now, if I start to move, the bar in "Other" goes down. It decreases, pretty consistently.

 

Why would the Energi use more housekeeping power at a standstill than when moving? Or is something else happening, and it just looks this way? Anyone know? 

I have been monitoring amps with a ScanGauge have observed what it reports under the conditions you describe.

 

With the car on and parked without any extra loads about .5 amp displayed in the ScanGauge.

At a stop light with my foot on the brake (Brake lights on) there is a slight increase to around 1 amp.

From a stop, with car in D and taking my foot off the brake, the car starts to creep forward and the display goes to 4 to 5 amps.

Pressing the accelerator to 1 bar in the empower screen increases ScanGauge display to around 30 amps.

 

My observations show more power used when the car creeps forward from a stop. The car is mimicking the actions of an Ice propelled car per the Ford design with the forward creep so it makes sense that some power is required to achieve this functionality.

 

I don't have an explanation for the gauge you are observing.

 

Tom



#67 OFFLINE   stevedebi

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 07:48 AM

Another curious gauge thing--

 

First, at a full stop, I turn off every accessory. No lights, no seat heaters, no radio, and so on.

Now if I observe the energy use gauge on the small left screen, it will show zero kW being used for climate control. It will show a small amount, like 1/4 kW, for "Other."

 

Now, if I start to move, the bar in "Other" goes down. It decreases, pretty consistently.

 

Why would the Energi use more housekeeping power at a standstill than when moving? Or is something else happening, and it just looks this way? Anyone know? 

The only thing I can think of is the brake lights, which would go out when you start moving.



#68 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 07:29 PM

Tom, test this for me please:

 

a) in D creeping forward, load 4 o 5 amps (you already did).

b) in L creeping forward, load ?

c) in D, light braking regen values from 10mph to 0 mph

d) in L, light braking regen values from 10mph to 0 mph.

e) in D, light braking regen values from 10 to 5mph, at 5mph shift to L and low regen values from 5 to 0.

 

Questions:

 

1.  Does regen go further in L versus D?

2.  Is the creep forward speed on L versus D slower?

3.  Is regen amounts larger if you shift to L from D while at 5mph and braking lightly to a stop?

 

Braking lightly means as light as possible to make a stop but to extend the regen as long as possible.

 

Thanks, much appreciated!

 

-=>Raja.



#69 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 06:27 AM

Tom, test this for me please:

 

a) in D creeping forward, load 4 o 5 amps (you already did).

b) in L creeping forward, load ?

c) in D, light braking regen values from 10mph to 0 mph

d) in L, light braking regen values from 10mph to 0 mph.

e) in D, light braking regen values from 10 to 5mph, at 5mph shift to L and low regen values from 5 to 0.

 

Questions:

 

1.  Does regen go further in L versus D?

2.  Is the creep forward speed on L versus D slower?

3.  Is regen amounts larger if you shift to L from D while at 5mph and braking lightly to a stop?

 

Braking lightly means as light as possible to make a stop but to extend the regen as long as possible.

 

Thanks, much appreciated!

 

-=>Raja.

Raja,

From what I can tell you can regen just as well in D using the brake if you are disciplined enough to get to 100%. My braking is never quite perfect and my brake score often are in the mid 90s range. Using L is more effective for me to maximize the regen than that I can achieve by using the brake while in D. My observations of the AMP xgauge while braking in D can be just as high as the values seen while shifting to L while using no brake. Using L is more consistent that my ability to finesse the brake petal. 

 

The second question regarding forward creep is the same in L or D for both how the car feels and the AMP display in the ScanGauge.

 

My results for your third questions are inconclusive. There is very little energy left to capture in any event. In L regen does seem to occur at lower speeds than D but any recovered energy is minuscule at best. I normally don't worry about using these marginal activities for my battery management. 

 

Tom



#70 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 12:39 PM

The only thing I can think of is the brake lights, which would go out when you start moving.

Plausible.

You can see the gauge show the increased power draw when the headlights & fog lights go on. Why not the brake lights?

*

Come to that, why is "headlights" one word, while "fog lights" and "brake lights" and "tail lights" and "running lights" and so on are all two words? Meh.



#71 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 12:44 PM

....Using L is more consistent than my ability to finesse the brake pedal....

 

Tom

Me too. Yet these are both hard things:

1-Brake @ 100%;

2-Hit L just at the right time so that you stop where you need to.

 

Both good games. Both really good games.


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#72 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 08:25 PM

In time you will be able to brake 100% all the time given enough notice to do it, i.e. no sudden light changes.

 

Use L to slow down does not "repair" the brake coach values and your driving score will stay low if the brake coach is not at 100% blue, not that everyone cares, but just making a clarification.

 

I also believe, but don't quote me on that, that using L to slow down does not add to your regen miles on your trip/lifetime summary.  While I didn't verify it 100%, I swear when I used to use L for braking the regen numbers at the end of a trip were surprisingly lower than expected.  Maybe someone can verify this if you have the time to do it.

 

-=>Raja.










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