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Empower Screen Linear or Non-Linear?


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71 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 02:05 PM

Rick,

 

Which former dean was tha?

 

Jack Templeton

 

Drexel BSME 1967

Selcuk Guceri. Truly one of my favorite academics ever ever.









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#22 OFFLINE   stevedebi

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 12:46 PM

Rick:

 

Check your leaf screen where it shows the % of the HVB charge level.  Drive to work and see what's left.  Remember that if it was at 100% its really not as accurate as you get 1 to 2 miles before it drops to 99%.  So 100 down to 60% is more than 40% if that makes sense.  If you do it again starting from 95%, you'll find it will go down below 55% on that same trip given everything else is equal.

 

Then on the way home also check the % and see what you need.  You'll learn that hey I need 55% to get home from work for example.  So if I charge my car there I can leave when I have at least this much and more is better.  I use this learning factor to know what I need from several points away from my house to get there or get back from there.  

 

It will make you a smarter, better driver.

 

When you're driving EV, you can reconfigure if you want but not necessary the myview to show the empower screen on the left and the driving coach on the right.  You want 3 full blue bars there all there time.  If you mess up with acceleration, braking or speed you will see it ding you right away.

 

Tom, try it, the battery does assist the engine from my findings if the coolant is not at full hot yet.  You also live in a warmer climate, so that is going to have an effect on how far you can drive engine-less with heat on before the HVB starts to kick in to keep the coolant warm.  The colder it is, the shorter this time.  Try it here at 10F now, it won't be more than 2 miles tops I'm betting.

 

-=>Raja.

Raja,

What, the 2013 leaf screen shows % charge? I don't think it does for the 2014. I'll have to look, since I usually keep it in Nav mode on the right hand screen.



#23 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 12:59 PM

Sure it should, no?  You need to click on the other option besides the one that shows the car graphic.  Its the same screen where you can program go times.

 

I use it all the time to "learn" battery % needed to here and there.  I'm so good about that right now I can estimate to a 0% HVB just about upon arrival at a destination with a public charger.

 

If have you that screen I highly recommend you make use of it.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 09 February 2015 - 01:00 PM.


#24 OFFLINE   stevedebi

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 02:00 PM

Sure it should, no?  You need to click on the other option besides the one that shows the car graphic.  Its the same screen where you can program go times.

 

I use it all the time to "learn" battery % needed to here and there.  I'm so good about that right now I can estimate to a 0% HVB just about upon arrival at a destination with a public charger.

 

If have you that screen I highly recommend you make use of it.

 

-=>Raja.

OH, That. I thought you meant the right hand driver screen, that shows "leaves".



#25 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 04:42 PM

Yes, seeing the "leaves" is key!

 

On-topic with gauges again, thanks Steve and Raja for the instructions on how to bring up the coolant gauge. I appreciate what the Ford engineers did with it. We took a highway trip to Lancaster in my wife's Energi (we have two) and I was delighted to see that, at steady state operating temperature, the marker is precisely at the midpoint of the scale.

It's a nice touch. I for one appreciate the symmetry.

This is apparently one of those forums where it's a complex operation to post images, so I'll just mention what we all see in our cars all the time. But it was great after the 50 or so ICE-running miles on the highway to have this big bottle of hot water, essentially, that could then be used for interior heat without current draw. It was also fascinating to watch that heat dissipate as the antifreeze cooled down...

 

Also, yes Raja, I can make it to work and back on EV. Haven't actually done it yet, but almost.

What happened was, I made it to work this morning with great scores and 61% battery left.

When I got ready to leave, I saw that the battery was standing at 54%. Probably through moving cars around during the day, the guys in the garage had used up 7%.

I drove home with great care--in particular, easing off on speed up hills and gaining it on the way down makes a tremendous difference. As does acceleration at less than two bars.

Just about a mile outside EV+ range, at the bottom of a hill, the battery hit 0. I nursed her along just below the threshold of the ICE coning on (as shown in the Empower screen). At about a half mile from EV+ range, near the top of that hill, the ICE came on.

Drat!

Then the ICE ran mostly at a red light (double drat! not even moving), then shut off as I nursed her home in the EV+ realm. Total gas used, 0.04 gallons, or so the gauge told me.

So I still haven't made it, but this performance tells me that with that extra 7%, not to mention a slightly higher battery % remaining on the way in, I can get to work and back on EV alone, and with not charging in the garage at work.

 

Since this was one of my goals with the NRG, I'm quite pleased.


Edited by P=E/t, 09 February 2015 - 04:43 PM.


#26 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 08:35 PM

You may need to slow down just a bit to increase your range.  How fast are you driving anyways to work and back?

 

Also, 7% seems like alot for the garage guys to use, unless they are joy riding your car around and stepping on the accelerator hard.  Check the coach screen and see if your acceleration bar or brake bar moved downwards, mine are usually at full blue, and I would know right away if someone drove my car as they would most certainly drop from there if you drive it the "normal" wham bam ICE way (hard on the gas, hard on the brake).

 

Another reason for the drop is battery cooling.  If you drive it somewhere in the cold weather the battery warms up and provides more energy out,  but then once it cools for hours the voltage drops on the pack and when you power up again it will indicate a lower %.  The opposite happens in the summer, if you park the car with 54% one night, the next day when its hot out and you go out in the afternoon and power up, it might say 61% because of voltage rise due to the heat.  That's the big reason you don't want to leave your car fully charged all the time, though Ford puts in a protection in there by not charging the battery to a real 100%, Li-ion batteries much prefer to be stored about 60% charge level and leaving them at 100% in the heat does some damage to the batteries which is slow and incremental damage (irreversible) over time.

 

Your mission, should you decide to accept it (which I believe you already did) is to make it all the way to work and back on 1 charge!

 

Let me know when you succeed  :hi5:

 

-=>Raja.



#27 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 05:40 AM

I have often noticed after using only part of the HVB then leaving the vehicle parked for an hour or more there is often a drop in the reported SOC. Unlike Raja I have never made a correlation between a SOC change decrease or increase with a related ambient temperature change. It does sound like a reasonable possibility though.

I also think that the center screen SOC display is not completely linear. It is certainly skewed  toward the top end as I have observed when comparing it with the SOC reported from the scan gauge. It takes a couple % drop from the scan gauge reading before the center display drops from 100%. I don't know how linear the scan gauge is either. The correlation is not easy since the center display is 0 to 100% usable charge while the scan gauge shows the reserve as well where the usable range of the HVB is about 21% to 98% and the lowest reported SOC is about 17.5% if the hybrid portion  of the HVB is also depleted.

Raja you should really consider getting a scan gauge. There are endless hours of fun using the gauges that can be programmed into this tool.



#28 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 10:53 AM

You may need to slow down just a bit to increase your range.  How fast are you driving anyways to work and back?

 

Also, 7% seems like alot for the garage guys to use, unless they are joy riding your car around and stepping on the accelerator hard.  Check the coach screen and see if your acceleration bar or brake bar moved downwards, mine are usually at full blue, and I would know right away if someone drove my car as they would most certainly drop from there if you drive it the "normal" wham bam ICE way (hard on the gas, hard on the brake).

 

Another reason for the drop is battery cooling. etc

 

-=>Raja.

Mercy mercy Raja, you're putting me in mind of that scene from "Ferris Buehler's Day Off" when the garage guys take off in the Ferrari!

 

I'll check the coach at day's end that's a good idea but there isn't any opportunity for them go any distance, and I know them well--they're supremely respectful and careful about people's cars. Your thoughts about the battery temp are spot-on and more likely the explanation of what's happening here.

 

I may have noted somewhere above, my commute is all under 40mph, unless I get up to say 45 on West River Drive for the first stretch, but the official speed limit there is 35mph so one has to be careful not to get a ticket. And as you guys have shown, staying under 40 makes a big difference.

 

My inbound and outbound scores were excellent yesterday, and the warmer temps helped, 45F instead of like 18F lately. I came very close. I can and will do it.

 

Today though I had to use the ICE a little to defrost (again, love saying that sort of thing) on the way in--not a matter of options, it was a matter of pure safety. And it was better I guess than using up all the HVB for heat.

 

So Ferris and I shall make the noble attempt again tomorrow...



#29 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 11:12 AM

A trick about defrost.  If you crack both front windows down just a bit, like 1/4 inch no more than 1/2 inch you can leave the climate control off and there will be no need for defrost.  Less power from the battery means more range and no engine is needed either.

 

I fully expect that you will make it.  Try to set the cruise for 37 mph or so and see if you do.  I use CC often even on side roads so I don't have to feather the gas, the car does it for me.  I've become very acquainted with shutting the cruise off with the button if there is a downhill coming, using hill assist and then turning the cruise back on to maintain the speed and not go over 38mph.  If you maintain speed and charge harder down the hill to do it, in the end you will go further on the same kwh used than letting the car run away down the hill at 45 mph from 37 for example and then slow back down to 37 by staying in D.  If the hill is steep where hill assist is going to make you gain a little speed up to 40mph, shift to L instead of hill assist as L will hold the speed tighter down the hill and maybe even start to slow you down if the hill is not too steep.  You have to watch your speed and determine when to shift back to D and re-enable cruise.

 

Try it, and make sure you plan your stops carefully so that every stop is 100% brake score.  Brake early and lightly.  The more perfect regen you do, the better as you need that last bit of the HVB to climb the last hill home.  After departing from a stop, you accelerate slowly (not CC) using 1.5 bars is ideal if no traffic behind you or 2 bars top even if traffic is there until you get to about 35mph and then enable cruise.  It will be more efficient than letting cruise use more than 2 bars to get you up to speed if that makes sense.  Its a little bit more aggressive than you can be, and longer accelerations and better than shorter faster ones as you will be operating in better EV motor efficiency longer.

 

Word of warning, if you are fully charged to 100% which I expect you will be when leaving in the morning, do NOT shift to L on the way out of the house down that 1 mile downhill, instead use the brakes lightly as the engine will start in L if the battery is full going down a hill.

 

Awaiting your progress and reply!

 

Tom, I thought about it, but, I got all the information I need from scangage from other people's findings so to speak.  The car has enough data for me to maximize my range with the wealth of information I already have from what people learned using the SG.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 10 February 2015 - 11:17 AM.


#30 OFFLINE   Smiling Jack

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 01:08 PM

Back to the original question:  I think it is linear.

 

But if it is not linear and it is "Non-Linear," then it's probably in Canada.  I think they use some mix of British English and American there, so they might use the hyphen.

 

If it is not linear and in the US, then it would be "Nonlinear."  "Nonlinear" (without the hyphen) is a proper word in American English.


Edited by Smiling Jack, 10 February 2015 - 03:39 PM.


#31 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 06:20 PM

If it is not linear and in the US, then it would be "Nonlinear."  "Nonlinear" (without the hyphen) is a proper word in American English.

*My editor friend would be appalled that I made such a mistake! Good eye.

I shall labour to use hyphens correctly.  ;}


Edited by P=E/t, 10 February 2015 - 06:33 PM.


#32 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 06:32 PM

A trick about defrost.  If you crack both front windows down just a bit, like 1/4 inch no more than 1/2 inch you can leave the climate control off and there will be no need for defrost.  Less power from the battery means more range and no engine is needed either.

 

I fully expect that you will make it.  Try to set the cruise for 37 mph or so and see if you do.  I use CC often even on side roads so I don't have to feather the gas, the car does it for me.... 

 

Try it, and make sure you plan your stops carefully so that every stop is 100% brake score.  Brake early and lightly.  The more perfect regen you do, the better as you need that last bit of the HVB to climb the last hill home.  After departing from a stop, you accelerate slowly (not CC) using 1.5 bars is ideal if no traffic behind you or 2 bars top even if traffic is there until you get to about 35mph and then enable cruise.  It will be more efficient than letting cruise use more than 2 bars to get you up to speed if that makes sense.  Its a little bit more aggressive than you can be, and longer accelerations and better than shorter faster ones as you will be operating in better EV motor efficiency longer.

 

Word of warning, if you are fully charged to 100% which I expect you will be when leaving in the morning, do NOT shift to L on the way out of the house down that 1 mile downhill, instead use the brakes lightly as the engine will start in L if the battery is full going down a hill.

 

Awaiting your progress and reply!

 

-=>Raja.

Yes, Raja, I have done defrost that way, windows cracked, especially when leaving the warm humid garage and hitting the colder, dryer air outside this time of year. But this morning it was a matter of thick ice all over the windows. (We have a one car garage and two cars.) For safety's sake, I had to use the ICE to clear the ice.

 

Saying that sort of thing never gets old...

 

I def try for and usually achieve high brake scores. And since reading your posts, I stay under 2 bars acceleration. Also as you point out here and elsewhere, I let 'er slow down when climbing hills, and let gravity speed me up on the other side. That seems to make a vast difference in battery preservation. I haven't tried the CC at low speeds, though, in fact haven't even thought of using it intermittently, as you demonstrate. Will have to try that.

 

And yes, that early use of L could trigger the ICE to run until it warms up. Happened to me once; won't let that happen again! If I turn on the ICE, I want it to be on my terms.



#33 OFFLINE   Smiling Jack

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 07:36 PM

*My editor friend would be appalled that I made such a mistake! Good eye.

I shall labour to use hyphens correctly.  ;}

 

Thanks for taking that in good spirit. 

 

I just could not resist ahving a little fun,  These posts can get so heavy and dry.


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#34 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 04:11 AM

Thanks for taking that in good spirit. 

 

I just could not resist ahving a little fun,  These posts can get so heavy and dry.

Oh, absolutely Jack-- online levity is probably one of the best preventives against online snarkiness, dontcha think? Always room for humour.

 

But if this thread was about materials science and the design of the Energi, that would be entirely another matter. We'd have to deal with the intense spelling controversy regarding "aluminum" versus "aluminium" versus "ailumininioum." And I take my ailumininioum very seriously.

 

Rick


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#35 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 12 February 2015 - 03:29 PM

MADE IT!!!!!

 

To work and back on EV only, that is, no gas, no ICE, and no charging during the day, which is dodgy to arrange in the garage at work.

I was forced on Auto towards the end, and watched that variable blue bar and battery icon like a terrier eyeing a slab of steak (small dogs are oddly always the most ravenous), nursing every coulomb, but I never let the ICE turn on. When EV+ appeared I knew I had it nailed.

 

And continuing the discussion of gauges, upon advice here I set up the MyView screen to show "climate/other" on the left and the coolant temperature on the right. It's interesting to watch the "climate/other" gauge. Seat warmers seem to make no noticeable difference to either side of the gauge, though they certainly must draw some significant current--but activating the rear defroster causes a significant rise in the current draw on "other."

 

Rick


Edited by P=E/t, 12 February 2015 - 03:32 PM.

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#36 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 12 February 2015 - 07:31 PM

Congratulations, woo hoo!   :happy feet:

 

FYI, I used to drive in "EV" mode but nowadays I almost always drive in Auto and watch the Empower screen to see how much power I'm using to drive and climb hills.

 

The only reason I would switch it to EV mode nowadays is if I was parked at a charger plugged in and trying to use the heat to warm up the car on the charger.  Switching it to EV mode lowers the engine starting threshold and helps not start the engine if the temperature is warm enough outside.  If its too cold its going to start anyways EV mode or not, I had that happen when it was 10 degrees out EV mode won't help.  At 30F or higher I think it will.

 

The only use I have for the climate gage is to determine if heat is drawing power or not when I'm running the engine.  I wait until the engine is fully warmed up and then turn on the heat.  Sometimes it draws just a little bit, and then using the air directionals (select to go to feet or face or both) will cancel out the draw.  Its a little bug in the system but I found a way around it.  I think there might be a tsb fix for it but I don't apply fixes to my car unless necessary.

 

In the summer time I use the AC and watch the climate power.  I wait for it to drop down to 625w after cooling the car down before unplugging and departing with the AC on.  You can use wall power to preserve as much of the battery as possible like this before leaving for your trip if you are next to a plug or a public charger.  It starts out as high as 2500 to maybe 3000w tops with the Cmax so waiting for it to drop down to 600w is a good idea if you need to maximize your range.

 

Other than this I'm not using the climate system anyways so watching that screen is not important when not in use.  Seat heaters draw very little power, headlights draw more power I believe, and foglights are in the middle.  High beams draw more also.  Just the fan in the climate is like 45w but I found a way around the fan with cracked windows all the time unless I'm on the highway then I use the fan to eliminate noise.

 

My #1 most important gage is the empower screen.  The next one of interest is the coach bars.  You could, when driving EV only, change the engine rpm/engine temp custom screen to the empower screen on the left and the coach bars on the right.  I believe this is the best config for EV driving.

 

I have to say this again, Congratulations on making it, I'm so happy for you  :dance: (smiling right now!)

 

-=>Raja.



#37 OFFLINE   P=E/t

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 05:34 AM

Congratulations, woo hoo!   :happy feet:

 

FYI, I used to drive in "EV" mode but nowadays I almost always drive in Auto and watch the Empower screen to see how much power I'm using to drive and climb hills.....

 

.....I have to say this again, Congratulations on making it, I'm so happy for you  :dance: (smiling right now!)

 

-=>Raja.

Thanks, Raja. It felt good, especially considering all the traffic lights, stop signs, steep hills and lunatic drivers I face on the way. Though in the morning I go so early, I'm mostly left alone to drive "the right way."

 

Auto, huh? I've been avoiding that out of concern the ICE would come on when I didn't want it to. Can you elaborate on your rationale?

 

I've only been using Auto in one circumstance. When I'm doing highway miles/exceeding the HVB range, I parse out the stored energy in the battery by switching to Auto when there's a significant upgrade on the highway, which keeps the trip mpg from being hammered. As you well know, Auto sets the threshold for the car to run on electricity much higher; you can see the blue band on the Empower screen go way up compared to EV Later. Auto probably does a whole host of other things I don't understand yet, as well. But anyway, I've taken a few highway trips where I knew I wouldn't need all that much EV range on local roads where I was going, so I allocated a lot of the HVB to those highway uphills, and attempted (with some success) to gain some charge on the way down, in EV Now mode; then (per your technique) switching back to EV Later as the grade leveled out. That netted me 50 mpg (ok 49.9) for a recent trip on which I actually entered New Jersey of my own free will; I think it was around 80 miles round trip, and in 20 degree weather. Beating the published highway mpg by 20% seemed alright, for a trip of that length and in the cold.

 

So naturally your thoughts on Auto intrigue me, Raja, because there are aspects of it I don't understand yet.

 

Rick


Edited by P=E/t, 13 February 2015 - 05:35 AM.


#38 OFFLINE   stevedebi

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 08:45 AM

Thanks, Raja. It felt good, especially considering all the traffic lights, stop signs, steep hills and lunatic drivers I face on the way. Though in the morning I go so early, I'm mostly left alone to drive "the right way."

 

Auto, huh? I've been avoiding that out of concern the ICE would come on when I didn't want it to. Can you elaborate on your rationale?

 

I've only been using Auto in one circumstance. When I'm doing highway miles/exceeding the HVB range, I parse out the stored energy in the battery by switching to Auto when there's a significant upgrade on the highway, which keeps the trip mpg from being hammered. As you well know, Auto sets the threshold for the car to run on electricity much higher; you can see the blue band on the Empower screen go way up compared to EV Later. Auto probably does a whole host of other things I don't understand yet, as well. But anyway, I've taken a few highway trips where I knew I wouldn't need all that much EV range on local roads where I was going, so I allocated a lot of the HVB to those highway uphills, and attempted (with some success) to gain some charge on the way down, in EV Now mode; then (per your technique) switching back to EV Later as the grade leveled out. That netted me 50 mpg (ok 49.9) for a recent trip on which I actually entered New Jersey of my own free will; I think it was around 80 miles round trip, and in 20 degree weather. Beating the published highway mpg by 20% seemed alright, for a trip of that length and in the cold.

 

So naturally your thoughts on Auto intrigue me, Raja, because there are aspects of it I don't understand yet.

 

Rick

Auto is very similar to EV Now, in that the engine won't come on unless you put a lot of pedal into it. Even using EV Now, if you ask for too much power it will start the engine. When using Auto, the "Empower" will show a sliding scale indicating at what point the engine will come on. I don't generally use that around town, but then I'm not paranoid about not using the ICE when needed. Several times, when I've used up the entire HVB and charged up, I've forgotten to switch back to EV Now, and didn't realize it until I noticed that the guage was green instead of blue. I've read of many folks who don't use EV Now at all, just Auto and EV Later.



#39 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 09:03 AM

OK, time for an Auto lesson.

 

Auto is the default mode.  In auto the car is in EV mode unless you step on the gas quite hard, past 4 bars in warmer weather or 3 to 3 1/2 bars is really cold temps of the winter.  If you go over the higher threshold in auto, the engine will start to give you additional passing power or get out of the way emergency power.

 

In EV Now mode, the engine will not start even if you floor it.  The car will accelerate as fast as it can on battery only.  There is a little window that comes up and says press OK to enable engine if you need it, but you can ignore it.

 

In Ev later the main battery is put aside and the hybrid section of the main battery (its only 1 battery) is made available to you.  In hybrid mode you only get 2 bars tops, anything after that the engine starts.  Over time the 2 bars become less and less until you have to start the engine to keep going.  If you use EV later and go back to Auto or EV now, you have used the hybrid battery so when the main battery is finished, the drop isn't gradual from 4 bars down to 3 down to 2 bars for a little bit and down from there.  It may drop suddenly from 4 bars down to 1.5 bars for example.   What does this mean or why is this info of any value?  Because:

 

If you are driving highway city highway etc on a long trip using Auto and EV later, then at the end of the trip you should be in Auto to finish off the battery pack before getting home.  If you are in cruise control at say 37mph, then when the main battery pack reaches 1% you should disable cruise control and feather the gas yourself to less than 2 bars to see where the drop is going to be, 1 bar is ideal, or not more than 1.5 bars if possible if you are close to home and trying to prevent the engine from running.  When the main battery reaches 0%, you will see a sudden drop and realize where you are at with remaining hybrid battery power.  Then, maybe you can nurse it home.  I had this happen to me once, I was in CC up the last incline home (not so steep) but CC maintained 2 bars to climb it and the engine started when the main battery reached 0% because I had already used EV later before in this trip.  DAMN!  It started just 1/2 mile from home I could have slowed down this last incline at 1 bar power and made it home.  Just info for you to be more knowledgeable about this and prepared for when its going to happen.

 

Congrats again on the 50mpg trip, I've done some of those some people here sometimes think its not possible but it is if you use your battery wisely on longer trips, never on uphills, more on downhills to stretch it alot further than normal at the right speeds as well.

 

Do not worry about traffic and lights, this car excels in traffic and eats it alive.  Just think when you're stopped stuck in traffic or at a light everyone around you is brum brum brum idling burning gas and you're sitting there dead quiet.  You could be in traffic for 2 hours stop and go and still be on the hvb.  They on the other hand maybe wasted 2 gallons of fuel plus.

 

Bottom line, use Auto all the time.  Stay on the empower screen and watch you power.  Anyway you don't want to draw more than 2 bars so auto or ev now isn't going to make a difference.  The only difference is that auto shows you the 2 bars, ev now doesn't.  I like to see the bars.  Stay below 2 bars and you will go further.  Accelerate at 1.5 to 1.7 bars ideally, up to 2 bars tops if traffic is there or you need to climb a hill but don't go over 2 bars unless you are in CC then let it do its thing up the hill.  If not in CC you can let the car lose some speed up the hill and gradually pick the speed back up on the downhill using less than 2 bars to get there, don't rush to get all your speed back right away, and don't get any more speed than your limit, if you are cruising at 37 then don't let it run away into the 40's downhill, hold it back and regen harder - you WILL go further after using the regen you made down the hill.

 

Only use EV now if there is some reason the engine might start -- using heat while plugged in for example to stay warm and work inside the car on your pc or something like this.

 

Use EV later when on the highway to preserve the main battery for slower speeds.  However, in the end you must use up all of the battery before arrival, so if your arrival is say 1 mile off the highway, and you've used say 50% of the battery on country roads or slow traffic on the highway, then you need to determine where to shut the ICE off and continue on the highway on EV power only to get there with the battery just switching over to hybrid as you're getting there.  Target 0% main battery and full hybrid battery.  It is best for the battery if you don't drain the hybrid battery to the bitter end every time.  Remember that 10 miles range on the battery is only indicative of your previous driving, so what it means to you is different than what it means to me.  But you will learn with practice when you can shut off the ICE, and I usually slow down to 55-50mph if conditions allow for the last few miles as I'm using up the battery on the last bit of the highway.  What does that mean?  It means if you are going 67mph with the ICE, and you continue at 67mph on the battery, you will only go 7 miles of the 10 mile range on the battery for example (don't quote me on this, just example).  If you slow down to 55 you will go 8 miles, if you slow down to 50 you will go 9 miles, and 45 you will go all 10 miles.  Something like that.  I usually as my own personal rule try to stay at 50mph on the highway on battery, if I have to push it for traffic 55 tops but if there is no traffic (late at night) I might drop it to 48 just to maximize the range and improve my trip mpg numbers more.

 

Ok, enough brain dump for now, I don't know what else I need to say now, so ask me something else if I didn't answer it already.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 13 February 2015 - 09:08 AM.


#40 OFFLINE   stevedebi

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 01:11 PM

OK, time for an Auto lesson.

 

Auto is the default mode.  In auto the car is in EV mode unless you step on the gas quite hard, past 4 bars in warmer weather or 3 to 3 1/2 bars is really cold temps of the winter.  If you go over the higher threshold in auto, the engine will start to give you additional passing power or get out of the way emergency power.

 

In EV Now mode, the engine will not start even if you floor it.  The car will accelerate as fast as it can on battery only.  There is a little window that comes up and says press OK to enable engine if you need it, but you can ignore it.

....

 

-=>Raja.

Raja,

I've had the engine come on in EV Now. Not often, and I don't generally floor it anyway, but it has happened, and I believe the owner manual indicates this is possible.










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