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cabin air filter


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27 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Middleofnowhere

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Posted 20 September 2014 - 08:53 AM

I did my first cabin air filter change and it needed it.  Have a shop vac ready, mine was filthy.

Here is a link from over in the hybrid forum that was helpful: http://fordcmaxhybri...bin-air-filter/

 

Basically you need a torx driver to remove one screw and that is it.  The filter housing is located under passenger side dash, left side.  There are two push pins (squeeze and pull) to remove the felt cover over the fuze panel.  On your left you will see a single silver torx screw, remove it.  Squeeze on each side of the filter door to remove.  Pay attention to which way the filter faces when you pull it out.  Be prepared scrunch up the new filter to squeeze it into the housing.  All in all, the change took me about 15-minutes. Easy :)

 

Part number from box:

FP-70

CV6z-19N619-A

 

I ordered my filters from http://sunrisefordpa...m?siteid=217486, it's $13.50 and came with free shipping.

 

hope this helps someone.


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#2 OFFLINE   ArizonaEnergi

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 07:15 AM

Thanks for that information.  How many miles are on your car and do you drive in dusty conditions?

 

I like buying stuff from Amazon and I see they have it for $14.87 plus shipping unless your order is high enough.  http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B008PJDOSS


Edited by ArizonaEnergi, 21 September 2014 - 07:18 AM.


#3 OFFLINE   LionelLines

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 03:49 PM

Great info, that.

 

Thanks!   :happy feet:



#4 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 31 October 2014 - 05:29 PM

Uhhh.  I just did this cabin filter change.  I pulled 4 connectors from the fuse area to get the thing in.  I was really worried about damaging the filter with the contorting that happened to the old one on it's way out with 3 of the connectors in place.  No way you can do it with all 4 in place.  I removed 1 to get it out as it is.  Don't do this just after driving, or be careful of 2 hot metal pipes in back of the filter cover, (towards the front of the car).  They were, or at least one that I'm sure I touched, hot.

 

I didn't disconnect the battery ground so I have to go check for error codes that may come up now......

 

Edit-  Seems like some settings were reset.  To the left Enpower was set before, and now it is just the menu to select what is on the screen.  Similar on the right.  Radio was set to FM preset before, but now it was on an AM station.  Since we didn't have any set it was quite noisy when we started the car.  No serious side effects it seems.....


Edited by jzchen, 31 October 2014 - 10:10 PM.


#5 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 08:56 AM

At about 18 months and 20k mile I decided to replace the cabin filter. It sure needed to be replaced. I am thinking that I might change to once per year for this filter since it was so dirty. The biggest problem with changing the filter was getting access to it. I must be getting to old. Once I got in position the filter replacement only took a few minutes.  I only had to remove the outer cover under the glovebox and the small filter cover that is held on with a single screw at the bottom. The filter comes right once it is bent properly. I had done some research on how to do the replacement and that was a big help. The attached picture clearly shows how bad the old filter really was.

Attached Files


Edited by Tom_NC_1, 12 January 2015 - 08:59 AM.

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#6 OFFLINE   dontfret

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 01:38 PM

Did it today for the first time.  expresstire estimated $60 for the filter and $60 labor as their service guide said to pull the glove box, which happens to be the easiest way to contort the old filter in and out.  Bought the Motocrafdt FP70 on amazon for $11.58 and followed this online video guide:  http://www.carcareki...r_cabin/replace Took about 15 minutes and yes, the old one @ 27,000 miles was gross filthy.  One man job, but my more limber son-in-law followed my directions since I had watched the videos.  Trick is twisting the filter into a helix shape (think an hourglass pinch and then twist along ther middle) to worm it in and out.  Once the glove box is out you can see the filter slot more clearly, but getting the old out/new in is still by touch.  This will be an annual rite now that is see how it's done.  Just be careful and very slow when removing the right trim panel to free the glovebox, the orange clips easily go flying.  



#7 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 04:41 AM

Not sure I see a need to taking the glovebox out. I have replaced mine a couple of times and that hardest part is just bending my old body down to get access to the filter location. The filter comes out and goes in easily as long as you contort it the correct way. It is just the one screw on the filter cover and 5 minutes later its done.

 

Tom



#8 OFFLINE   dontfret

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 07:13 AM

Not sure I see a need to taking the glovebox out. I have replaced mine a couple of times and that hardest part is just bending my old body down to get access to the filter location. The filter comes out and goes in easily as long as you contort it the correct way. It is just the one screw on the filter cover and 5 minutes later its done.

 

Tom

I may it that way next year, it was just hard to visualize without at least once seeing the entire filter cover off and how the filter had to be distorted into a helix to get it in.  The 25-minute youtube of the fellow doing it without removing the glove box scared me, but removing and replacing the box was really easy.  The contortion to get to the filter is the hardest part - my son-in-law volunteered, now that I see where everything is, I might access it myself (depending if I am more or less flexible in 2017 :) )Then did the engine air filter, again removing and replacing the engine cover was the hardest part as it is tucked way under the cowl.  But both are definitely do-it-yourselves over the outrageous charges from dealer or shop.  


Edited by dontfret, 23 May 2016 - 08:17 AM.


#9 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 07:40 AM

I haven't done either of mine yet, though I hardly ever use my climate, the only time would be with AC in the summer, all winter long its off.  So maybe I get 3 months usage out of a year for the climate, and if folks are replacing it every 1 to 2 years, I should be able to go maybe 5 years, we'll see -- I'm at 3 years now.

 

The engine air filter I think I will go 100k miles on the car before looking at it, that would equate to about 45-50k on the engine the way I drive.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 23 May 2016 - 07:40 AM.


#10 OFFLINE   dontfret

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 08:06 AM

The engine air filter was dirty, not filthy (when I had my tires installed they 'checked the filters' as a 'courtesy' - then told me it was filthy and needed replacement.  But since it was so much effort to remove the cover to inspect the filter and I could see no evidence anyone had disturbed the surface dirt, no way they would have done that tear-down to inspect it, so I'm convinced they lied to me.  I do use the cabin air filter constantly, mostly without AC, to circulate outside air and when heating on ICE highways. (I have a hearing impairment and the road and wind noise of open windows, which I prefer when I'm by myself, makes any conversation impossible when it overwhelms the hearing aids).  My cabin air filter was beyond filthy, into the 'disgusting - am I breathing that?!?!" realm.  I actually expect to get greater airflow efficiency from the clean cabin filter when used for AC or heat.


Edited by dontfret, 23 May 2016 - 08:18 AM.


#11 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 09:16 AM

I should say that I hate road noise on the highway, so in that case the vent is on when I'm on long trips for example.  When EV only around local towns at speeds of no more than 45mph, my windows are always cracked.  But soon when summer arrives they will be closed with the AC running as needed.

 

-=>Raja.


Edited by rbort, 23 May 2016 - 09:16 AM.


#12 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 10:11 AM

I should say that I hate road noise on the highway, so in that case the vent is on when I'm on long trips for example.  When EV only around local towns at speeds of no more than 45mph, my windows are always cracked.  But soon when summer arrives they will be closed with the AC running as needed.

 

-=>Raja.

 

I would think that your cabin filter is plenty dirty. After 20k miles mine was real bad to the point I am planing  to replacing it every 10k miles from now on. The second cabin filter replaced at 30k miles was still dirty but not unreasonably so. This filter is rather easy to replace once you figure out the little tricks on how to bend the filter. Raja, I will be interested in finding out how bad your filter is when you do replace it.

 

I replaced the ICE air filter at 20k miles and the original one was still like new. I only replaced it because I already had the replacement filter. Next time I check it I will put the original  one back is since it still looks like new. The Ice air filter is in a not very user friendly location. Removing that shroud is not too bad once you realize that the front has to tilted down while raising the back so that it clears some posts in the rear. Wearing gloves would help as it is easy to scrap your knuckles on this project. This is another case of the second time being easier that the first.

 

Tom



#13 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 10:19 AM

Tell you what Tom, I have to go several places in the next couple of months, Indiana, Canada, NH, etc.  The car will be 3 years old for me at the end of August, maybe I should make a plan to check that filter at that point, or at 60k miles, that would be the time I'm doing the 3rd oil change.  Probably a good time to do it.  I'll let you know.  Where is the good place to get one?

 

-=>Raja.



#14 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 11:19 AM

Tell you what Tom, I have to go several places in the next couple of months, Indiana, Canada, NH, etc.  The car will be 3 years old for me at the end of August, maybe I should make a plan to check that filter at that point, or at 60k miles, that would be the time I'm doing the 3rd oil change.  Probably a good time to do it.  I'll let you know.  Where is the good place to get one?

 

-=>Raja.

 

I got my filters from amazon.com. The Brand should not make much difference or buying them locally. 

 

Cabin filter Motorcraft PF-70 costs under $12

http://www.amazon.co...1528360_TE_dp_2

 

ICE air filter Motorcraft FA1911 costs about $16

http://www.amazon.co...&qid=1464030736

 

Tom


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#15 OFFLINE   dontfret

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 11:58 AM

I got my filters from amazon.com. The Brand should not make much difference or buying them locally. 

 

Cabin filter Motorcraft PF-70 costs under $12

http://www.amazon.co...1528360_TE_dp_2

 

ICE air filter Motorcraft FA1911 costs about $16

http://www.amazon.co...&qid=1464030736

 

Tom

Ditto on all Tom - I just bought the two filters on line at Amazon as well, did the ICE air since after watching the videos it is real simple - same caution, getting the shroud out from under (and later back in) the cowl is the trickiest part until after you get it out you realize the shroud has to clear the pins.  The video makes it easier.  And Raja - the cabin air filter will be 5x worse than what you could imagine.  Wear gloves.  Watch these two videos - they even give the tool sizes needed.  If you decide to remove the glove box, watch for the orange clips when you remove the trim.  I probably will try just the cabin air filter cover without removing the glove box next time, but the first time it was useful to see how the filter has to be folded and twisted in.  Think DNA helix.  BTW, I was quopted $60 for the cabin air filter and $60 installation.  Outrageous for a $12 part and 15 minutes of labor (and that's with removing/replacing the glove box).

 

http://www.carcareki...r_cabin/replace

 

http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2013_Ford_C-Max_Hybrid_SEL_2.0L_4_Cyl./air_filter_engine/replace  



#16 OFFLINE   rbort

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 02:47 PM

Tom, did you take out the entire air filter housing to replace the filter?  That seems to be the easier way then just to get that top cover off in the cramped area?  What do you think?

 

Rich, I think I'll try it without removing the glove box, Tom was able to do it, sounds like a PITA but I think I should be able to.  I may need to use short range glasses though, the progressive ones will be hard to see as well with.

 

-=>Raja.



#17 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 03:43 AM

Tom, did you take out the entire air filter housing to replace the filter?  That seems to be the easier way then just to get that top cover off in the cramped area?  What do you think?

 

Rich, I think I'll try it without removing the glove box, Tom was able to do it, sounds like a PITA but I think I should be able to.  I may need to use short range glasses though, the progressive ones will be hard to see as well with.

 

-=>Raja.

 

Removed the cover below the glove box. Then removed the one screw for the cabin filter dust cover. Pulled out the filter flexing it as needed. Reversed the procedure to install the new one. Your right progressive lenses are not great for this job I removed my glasses as I can see well enough for close in work. Don't over think it as this job is not difficult.

 

Tom



#18 OFFLINE   jzchen

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 04:46 AM

When I did my wife's there were wire harness connections with wires nearby getting in the way.  Did you guys contort the filter so much to get it by them?  I disconnected the ones I mention in my post, and still had to contort the filter!  Any advice on that, or just disconnect the ground at the battery and then disconnect those harnesses?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

BTW-  After I contorted the old filter to get it out, I waited a while to make sure it bounced back to the proper shape.  I did this to make sure that contorting the new filter didn't cause it to deform and not seal in the filter box properly.  I then made sure to contort the new one only as much as the old and not more, and then waited a bit for it to bounce back before driving....

 

Also a carbon version looks interesting:

 

http://www.amazon.co...2013:ford:c-max

 

and carbon with baking soda from Fram Fresh Breeze CF11920 is coming out it seems!!!


Edited by jzchen, 24 May 2016 - 04:57 AM.


#19 OFFLINE   Tom_NC_1

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 06:02 AM

When I did my wife's there were wire harness connections with wires nearby getting in the way.  Did you guys contort the filter so much to get it by them?  I disconnected the ones I mention in my post, and still had to contort the filter!  Any advice on that, or just disconnect the ground at the battery and then disconnect those harnesses?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

BTW-  After I contorted the old filter to get it out, I waited a while to make sure it bounced back to the proper shape.  I did this to make sure that contorting the new filter didn't cause it to deform and not seal in the filter box properly.  I then made sure to contort the new one only as much as the old and not more, and then waited a bit for it to bounce back before driving....

 

Also a carbon version looks interesting:

 

http://www.amazon.co...2013:ford:c-max

 

and carbon with baking soda from Fram Fresh Breeze CF11920 is coming out it seems!!!

 

I had no problem removing/installing the filter and did not disconnect any wires during the process. If the filter is flexed like the installation videos show there were no issues with it springing back to the original shape.

 

The filter  you suggest may be a bit harder to install if it is stiffer that the original filter. The comments indicate that is is stiffer.

 

Tom



#20 OFFLINE   dontfret

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 12:24 PM

Tom, did you take out the entire air filter housing to replace the filter?  That seems to be the easier way then just to get that top cover off in the cramped area?  What do you think?

 

 

 

-=>Raja.

You have to take the engine cover completely out since the engine air filter housing is held with screws that are under the cowl (underneath the windshield).  Watch the carkcareiosk video, it's very clear - the trick is tilting the front of the housing down to clear the posts in the rear.  Gone are the old days of my youth where the doughnut-shaped air filter sat on top of the engine, held on with a single wingnut !!!  That carcarekisosk site is a wealth of excellent step-by-step videos, they even pop up the nut size sockets or screw size you will need.   They are promoting buying the parts you need, but they do an excellent job of illustrating the install process.










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